1967 67 Chevelle Restomod LS1 Tremec T56 air conditioning Pro-Touring

Up for sale is a 1967 Chevelle Pro-Touring Resto-Mod. I bought this car 3 years ago and have changed quite a bit and have upgraded almost everything. I know every detail and inch of this car. I have thousands of pictures through every process that I've done and can email them to you if you want to see more. I am only able to upload 24 pictures on this listing so I only put current pictures of the car as it sits right now. If I forget something specific that you would like to know, feel free to ask. It is equipped with a lot of upgrades as follows:
Body-
Paint is the same way it was when i bought the car. It is a light gold, champagne color. Only thing I've done is wet sand and buff the paint and touched up a few chips here and there. The paint is not "show room" perfect but excellent for cruise ins and daily driver status. One of the previous owners did install half quarter panels on it at some point in its life.
When I bought the car I disassembled the whole car. I replaced the complete trunk with an AMD 1 piece trunk pan w/ braces. I installed trunk drop outs at the same time. The inner wheel houses were rusted where they welded to the trunk so I replaced them too with stock width wheelhouses from AMD.
Both driver and passenger front floor pans were replaced with GoodMark panels. They were separated at the factory seams at the firewall and Rocker panels. They were cut in the middle of the front floor brace so the welds are not able to be seen from under the car. Factory bucket seat brackets were welded in also. The passenger side rear floor pan was also replaced with an AMD panel. Those welds are also smoothed under the car so they are not seen. The trans tunnel was cut out and raised to make room for the T56 so the driveline angle would be correct.
The firewall was cut out and new sheetmetal added to fill in the factory A/C & heater box openings. This car was a factory A/C model.
The whole cabin of the car was wire wheeled and sanded to bare metal. The whole underside of the car was also wire wheeled and sanded to bare metal. The whole firewall and cowl area were also wire wheeled and sanded to bare metal. All of the bare metal was them Painted with POR-15 Rust Prevention Paint and then painted with Duplicolor Bed Liner Spray. I do have pictures of the inside and underside of the car in bare metal. I used 3M clear Seam Sealer on the whole body. The inside of the trunk was sprayed with Rustoleum trunk splatter paint but it did not hold up at all. It scratches right off with your finger nail because it never hardened like it was supposed to. That is why the trunk looks the way it does. I may sand it back out and recoat it with something else if I get the time.
INTERIOR:
Has factory vinyl bucket seats. The carpet is new loop style. There is sound deadening mat under the carpet in addition to the factory style batting that comes with the carpet. The rear seat looks like someone tried to recover it but the cover is on a little crooked. It was that way when i got the car and never cared much about the back seat to be honest. The car does have all of the factory seat belts and the retractors work perfect. The door panels were on the car when I bought it but look to be newer replacements. The arm rests are not broken or cracked. the rear arm rests even still have the factory ash trays in them. The headliner is nice but the back diver side in the corner is starting to sag a bit. The dash pad is not dry rotted or cracked at all. The center console is custom made out of particle board with a 1/4" thick plastic top. It is covered with black vinyl. The metal dash does have a few extra holes from previous owners. I never took the time to remove the dash and weld up the holes. The window cranks and door handles are not perfect but are not rusted to death or flaking. Just hard to find decent aftermarket replacements that fit tightly so i never replaced them. The overhead dome light is new with LED bulbs and LED lights on both sides in the front by the passenger and drivers feet under the dash
WINDOWS & SEALS:
The windows do have some scratches from previous owners. They are not cracked or broken and are clear to look through. The door seals are not new but not dry rotted or cracked or torn. There is a little wind noise on the freeway that is expected from a 50 year old car. Mostly from the wing windows. The window felts are not new either. I would've replaced them if I was to paint the car but not necessary at this time.
DRIVER CONTROLS, GAUGES, DASH ECT:
Gauges are Dakota Digital VHX series with black background, white letters and red lighting. All gauges work perfect. A/C & Heater controls are Dakota Digital with auto climate control system. The radio is a cheap after market Blue Tooth radio. It is supposed to be touch screen but the screen has a crack in it and doesn't work. It does have a remote too. Does not have a CD player but works with an AUX cord. Its has two 6 inch Bose speakers in the console and 1 Kicker 6x9 in the rear deck shelf. There is no amps or subwoofers but the wiring is run to the trunk if you want to install a system. There is 2 cylinder style charge ports on the console, one by the shifter and one in the back for passengers, and 2 USB style charge ports by the shifter also. The factory cigarette lighter works but the wire fell off the back of it and I couldn't get my hand back up there to reconnect it so i just wrapped the wire with electrical tape and left it hang. Steering column is a Summit Brand stainless steel tilt column. It is the same as the top name brands. I just had to weld mounting nuts to it to bolt it to the bracket that bolts it to the dash. Horn works but sounds like an import horn. Was in the car when i bought it and never changed it. Its worth a laugh when you use it. Easy to change though. The steering wheel is a 14 inch billet wheel that I bought off ebay. The shifter handle is made by Hurst. It is a short handle with a slight lay back. Fits comfortably in your hand when you are driving. The shift ball is the polished aluminum factory one from a Mustang that has the TREMEC logo on it.
ELECTRICAL & WIRING:
The car has a brand new American Autowire Update Series Harness. The kit came new with all new headlight and taillight sockets, new ignition and new headlight switch and dimmer switch. The only switch that needs replaced is the wiper switch. It only works sometimes and only when you push it in for the squirters. Just haven't made the time to pull the dash down to replace it. The wiper motor does work and it is the original 2 speed motor. I never hooked up the squirters to make sure they work but the motor runs if you push in the switch. The headlights are all H4 conversions. The reverse lamps work and have new lenses. The license plate light works perfect and was replaced.
AIR CONDITIONING:
Air is made by Vintage Air Systems and is a GEN 4 series with the computer controlled servos. Being that this was a factory air car, the hoses run out of the passenger side kick panel and inside the fender. The condenser kit is also made by Vintage Air. The Engine PCM controls the air conditioning when it is turned on. It idles the engine up automatically and turns on the electric fan. It has good heat and ice cold air. Has defrost ducts and 4 separate vents on the dash and the floor vents.
FRAME:
The frame had a few rusted out mounting areas just like they all do so I cut out the rusted areas and welded in the repair washers to fix the mounts. The frame was then powder coated semi-gloss black. For the first 2 years of owning the car, the suspension was upgraded but still had stock geometry.
FRONT SUSPENSION:
The front half of the frame was cut off and I made a new front frame half. The old suspension does not handle well at all and I wanted to make a car that handled well on an Autocross track that has a lot of adjustment. It is loosely based on a Mustang II suspension, just like all the aftermarket frame builders do, but the upper arms are longer with Howe Racing adjustable taller ball joints. It has longer QA1 single adjustable coil-overs with 450lb springs. It has a bumpsteer kit with heim joints for tie rods. The sway bar is a splined 3/4 inch custom made unit. The track width from wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face is 57 inches. Stock width is 60 inches. The front brakes are 13 inch slotted and drilled disc with Red ZO6 Corvette Calipers. The rack and pinion is a Fox Body Mustang power assist unit. The upper arms are adjustable with slide in slugs. The front is roughly 2 inches lower than stock
I do have an all original stock frame that can go with the car for an extra $700 if you desire. It will also need the mounts repaired and is not painted or coated. It is from a 66 though that has the bigger rear coil springs.
REAR SUSPENSION:
The rear suspension is OEM triangulated 4 link with stock geometry. It has PMT boxed lower trailing arms. The upper arms are pinion angle adjustable. It has a 1 inch sway bar. The shocks are Bilsteins. The rear springs are made by BMR and are their 2 inch lowering springs which is closer to 3 inch lower for some reason. The rear brakes are slotted and drilled disc brakes. The rear calipers are the GM D154 calipers without E-Brakes.
REAR DIFFERENTIAL:
The rear end is a GM 8.2 10 bolt. It has a Yukon Gear Posi center carrier. The axles are Motive Gear 28 spline. The ring and pinion is a 3.90 gear also made by Motive Gear. All components in the rear end were replaced last summer with all new bearings and seals.
ENGINE:
The engine is a 1998 Corvette all aluminum 5.7 Liter LS1. It had 78k miles on it when I bought it. The motor is all stock except for the camshaft, valve springs and push rods. It has a Texas Speed 224R cam kit in it. Cam has 224 duration @.050 lift and .581 lift on both intake and exhaust with 112 lope separation. The timing chain and oil pump were changed also when I put the cam kit in it. When the engine was stock, I took it to a local Dyno and had it run and it made 305hp and 299ft lbs of torque. After the cam it made 351hp w/ 324ft lbs of torque. This was a hot summer day though. I've taken it to the 1/4 mile drag strip and the best I could get was 12.81. I'm no pro and I'm sure a better driver could go faster.
The throttle body is a stock 75mm drive by cable from a F-Body camaro. The intake is a stock LS1 intake. The oil pan is a Holley 302-2. The exhaust manifolds are Hooker ceramic coated cast iron manifolds. All of the engine driven accessories are the stock corvette except the A/C pump and bracket. It has a Sanden 508 compressor with an LSX Concepts bracket kit. The motor mounts are custom made by me for the fabricated frame.
The engine harness is made by BP Automotive Wiring. It has factory PCM controlled A/C and relays for the 2 speed electric fan that is also PCM controlled. The computer is a factory GM computer from a 98-02 Camaro that was reprogrammed. Computer also controls the Reverse Lock Out for the trans
TRANSMISSION:
Bought the transmission new from Summit Racing at the beginning of June 2016. It is an American Powertrain Tremec T56 part number TEUT-11012. It has a 2.97 1st gear, 2.10 2nd gear, 1.46 3rd, 1.00 4th, .74 5th and a .50 6th gear. The bellhousing was also bought new and is a factory F-Body Camaro part. The clutch kit is a LUK stock replacement clutch and flywheel for 98-02 Camaro. The slave cylinder is a Billet piece made by RAM Automotive. Part Number RAM-78165. It has a remote bleeder kit that is mounted up by the master cylinder. All clutch lines are braided stainless lines. The master cylinder is a factory GM unit for 99-02 F-Body Camaro with an adapter for the line. The driveshaft yoke is a billet part made by Sonnax that was bought new from Summit Racing also. Driveshaft was cut and balanced professionally with new U-Joints. The transmission crossmember is custom made by me using 2x3 .120 wall rectangular tubing. It has the cut outs made to clear the exhaust also.
FUEL SYSTEM:
The gas tank is made by Tanks Inc. It is a 20 gallon tank and has an in tank fuel pump and sump with a swing type fuel level sending unit. The fuel pump is a Walbro 255 lph pump that is good for up to 500hp. The fuel pressure regulator is the factory 97-98 Corvette fuel rail mounted type that was used before the separate filter/regulator combo style. That is why you see 2 lines up to the fuel rail in the pictures. The fuel lines and fittings are the Summit brand PTFE braided lines with all A.N. style fittings. The line is rated up to 2500 psi, -65 degrees and up to 400 degrees. Works perfect with no leaks. The fuel line is run inside of the frame.
EXHAUST:
The exhaust is 2 1/2 inch duals from front to back. The mufflers are made by Borla. I put 2 flex pipes in just after the exhaust manifolds to help with sound resonance and also put in 2 internally perforated resonators before the mufflers to help keep it a little more quiet on long trips. The exhaust exits under the rear bumper as pictured. Originally it had flow master mufflers but they were annoying on long trips. The exhaust was painted with header paint 3 years ago but a lot of it has flaked off.
WHEELS & TIRES:
Wheels are made by U.S. Mags and are the U111 Rambler series. The fronts are 17x8 and the rears are 18x9.5 The lug nuts are the locking style they require the special key to get them off, which i do have. Bolt pattern is 5x4.75 which is the factory pattern. The tires are Sumitomo HTR Z 2s. The fronts are brand new. Just got them today but are not installed yet in the pictures but will be done by the end of the day. Just wanted a wider tire up front. The front size is 245-45-17 and the rear is 275-40-18. The rear tires have less than 10k miles on them
FEW REMARKS:
This is my personal car. I have driven it every nice day for the last 3 years. (Never in the winter though). I have put close to 30k miles on this car since I've owned it. I have driven it on trips that have been 3,000 plus miles. It runs perfect and the brakes stop better than any car I've ever driven. There is no check engine lights or any mechanical issues. No leaks either. This car has always been stored in a heated shop during the winters since I've owned it.
I do have lifts i will put the car on so you can inspect every inch of it. I don't believe in selling something without disclosing everything i know so please ask as many questions as you can think of this way it will save both of us a lot of time and money.
I do have a lot of pictures of it through every process described above. I can email them upon request. If you are able, i'd rather have you come and see it in person. If you do win the auction and have not seen it in person, after you leave the deposit and come to see it and do not like it, I will refund your money and relieve you of all obligations as long as you at least agree to pay the listing fees and cancel the transaction on ebay so I do not have to pay the final value fees. That is all I ask.
I do have a small loan through my credit union on the car that will need paid before The title is transferrable. I know this may be an inconvenience for someone who is getting a loan check. Just want you to be informed. Sorry if this is an inconvenience or deal breaker.