1953 Ford Customline 2 door sedan
1953 Ford Customline All there
Technical specifications of Ford Customline 1953 | |
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| Price: | US $8,500.00 |
| Condition: | Used |
| Item location: | Camarillo, California, United States |
| Make: | Ford |
| Model: | Customline |
| SubModel: | 2 door sedan |
| Type: | Sedan |
| Trim: | All there |
| Year: | 1953 |
| Mileage: | 113021 |
| VIN: | A3LG138994 |
| Color: | Black |
| Engine size: | 215 ci |
| Number of cylinders: | 6 |
| Fuel: | Gasoline |
| Transmission: | Manual |
| Drive type: | RWD |
| Interior color: | Gray |
| Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
| Vehicle Title: | Clean |
| You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Car description |
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- 1953 Ford Customline 2 door sedan for sale. Buyer is responsible for shipping. This is a 50th anniversary edition, 215 straight 6 cylinder engine, 3 speed on the column, stock rear end. About 113,021 original miles and climbing because I still drive it every other day or so. Previous owner did some cylinder head work (hardened seats, valve job, springs and also rebuilt the carb, etc.) Original Long Beach, Ca. Ford plant car, mostly an all original/factory Vehicle, exterior paint is factory/original raven black paint! It’s not perfect by any means. The only piece on this car that doesn’t look to original paint on the exterior is the passenger front fender because of the color I can see under the black paint an original blue/green or teal color is under the black paint on this exterior piece. I’m guessing it got hit and they replaced it off another 53 along with the front driver and passenger interior window frames because those are the same blue/green or teal color as the paint that was covered on the passenger front fender, the original interior color of this car is grey, it’s mostly original/factory internet r with the exception of the two front interior window frames (they’re still correct 1953 just not the ones that came with this car out of the plant), original seat covers are still under the current seat covers (I’m sure they’re rough), rebuilt carb, air/idle mixture or float could use a readjustment, new intake/exhaust manifold and pipe gaskets, major tuneup including spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points/condenser done about a year ago, recent 12 volt conversion, brand new one wire alternator, used but currently still good Napa 12 volt battery, new coil, rebuilt starter, replaced clutch, new ring gear, professionally flushed radiator, new thermostat/gasket, replaced radiator hoses, new mechanical fuel pump and fuel filter, new master cylinder, new brake shoes, resurfaced drums, new wheel cylinders and brakes hoses all around, new headlights, new parking light/tail light lenses, New 12 volt light bulbs installed throughout vehicle, dash lights currently not working (most likely a fuse or wiring), high beams always stuck on ON position (red light indicator dot on instrument panel always on), brand new foot switch is in the trunk ready to be installed (that should fix the high beams always being stuck in the on position or it’s a fuse), wiring should be replaced eventually it’s mostly factory, new shocks all around, new 3†lowering blocks in the rear, original steel wheels, dog dish caps off of a later model ford, I also have the original full hubcaps for it in the trunk, good Denman 6.70-15 bias ply white wall tires, original fomoco glass all around (driver side vent wing is the only one that’s cracked) rust spots in the following areas including: both of the lower front fenders (photo 11 is the drivers side lower fender, photo 12 is the drivers side rocker to rear quarter panel and photo 13 is the passenger side lower front fender rust issues, photo 15 is passenger side lower rocker and lower rear quarter not too bad, but cancer has begun) driver’s side floor boards (front and rear refer to pictures 2&4) and the spare tire well in the trunk (picture 6) all easily repairable, and replacement pieces are cheap ranging from 25-120 each and if you can weld even better, these are common rust areas for these vehicles, but overall a pretty solid car considering it’s age and being kept outside for some time in California. Roof, hood, doors, deck lid and around the windows are good. The California black and yellow plates are the original plates that were reissued to the vehicle in 1963 because people were required to turn in their original yellow and black plates at this time. The kingpins should be replaced soon and I’d recommend a new fuel tank or at least dropping this one and flushing it out very well, if driving in bumper to bumper traffic or standing still for long periods of time the temp gauge does climb it hasn’t overheated on me, but I wouldn’t push or risk this issue it’s nothing an electric fan and/or brand new radiator couldn’t fix, this vehicle does need work, the throttle linkage should be looked over or redone (it’s old) this is an easy fix. Anything I’ve found wrong with this vehicle I’ve tried to be honest about and mention here. I no longer have the time or space to work on this vehicle. Please feel free to ask me any questions by messaging/emailing me. I’ve done my duty by getting it out of the weeds of a front yard in Casitas Springs, Ca. by Johnny Cash’s old place and back on the road. Own a piece of history and look cool doing it. This car runs, drives and stops, tags paid for until March of 2020 with a clean/clear title in my name and in hand. Sold as is. All sales final. No warranty. Finding a 2 door now in days in this shape, thats this cool, with this patina, that runs, drives and stops for this kind of money is becoming very difficult to find. Set yourself apart and be different at the car shows with this 1953 Ford Customline the Chevrolet’s are very cool too, but let’s face it they’re everywhere. Buyer is responsible for shipping. I can help load it if necessary or if bought locally within reason (so cal area) we can discuss me dropping it off for an additional fee. I do also have a trailer and we can discuss me dropping it off for an additional fee once payment on vehicle is received and paid in full and if your in Southern California. Unmolested barn find car. Spare parts in trunk include extra ring gear, everything if you want to convert it back to 6 volt including coil, generator and starter, new high/low beam foot switch, original full hubcaps, original light lenses and other misc. parts. A good running, drive able project. Thank you I appreciate your time and interest. If you’d like to see a video of it driving after I first bought it and got it running/back on the road tap on the link https://youtu.be/2YJmRN2hl6Y if the link doesn’t work please just go to you tube and type in filthy 53 (The Butchers Filthy 53 Ford) watch and enjoy, keep in mind that video was made right after I got it on the road and since then many more upgrades, parts, time, labor and work has been performed on this vehicle. Thanks again and remember you too can own a Lead Sled/Classic car that’s pretty much an all original piece of Americana!
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