1940 Buick Super Series 50 model 56s Sport Coupe -very original survivor CA car!

1940 Buick Super Series 50 model 56s Sport Coupe w/ 248cu Dynaflash 8 w/ 3 speed on column

VIN/Engine #53889700

I purchased this Buick coupe from its second owner, who had owned and cared for it since 1975. He bought the car here on the Monterey Peninsula at the legendary "Len Brenner's Classics" and drove it daily for many years until recent health setbacks prevented him from driving it any longer. The car originally came from the Los Angeles area, prior to making its way up to Monterey in the early-to-mid 1970's.

This is car is a truesurvivor.It is an incredibly solid car that appears to have never been wrecked or messed with- a rare opportunity that doesn't come along that often in a car that is nearly 80 years old. It starts, runs, drives, and stops as it should.Short of most of the mechanical systems being restored, this car is ahighlyoriginal example of a Super Model 56S coupe. The doors open and close like a brand new car(despite the fact that the door rubber is old and broken down) and it appears to me that none of the body panels have ever been removed from the car, as the gaps are very nice all the way around.

Ithas absolutely NO rust/rot/cancer!I've never seen a car of this age with rockers so nice...that goes for the floors as well. Anything you see in the photos is surface rust only, and it's pretty minor at that. I'm sure if you gave this car a CLR bath most of that surface rust would go away. I never did that because I thought the slight bit of surface rust gave itcharacter.The paint ismostly faded and original, with lots of "sunburn" on the top panels.

It has great patina and character and shows well as-is, but it also could be an extremely solid start for a full restoration or custom build. I've always liked it just the way it is, so I've made every attempt to keep it running well and keep it clean, but leave the battle scars, etc. that tell the story of the car and where it has been over the past decades. It even has the remains of an old WW2 gas ration sticker on the windshield and an American flag sticker on the back window that shows the remnants of only 48 stars.

When the engine and trans wererebuilt, the owner decided to have the engine compartment and all components re-sprayed and detailed. It is hard to photograph, but theengine compartment is very clean.

I've got a binder full of receipts that the previous owner gave me. He spent a ton of money on the car over the past decades keeping it running properly and having various systems rebuilt. Allfunctions operate, with theexception of what is noted below.

Some of the items that have been rebuilt or addressed are as follows:

-Complete engine and transmission rebuild

-All new original type cloth-insulated wiring harness installed

-Gauges were re-done (they all work) and engine turning on dash was also re-done at this time.

-Pertronix electronic ignition (all hidden under the distributor cap)

-Brakes were fully gone through/rebuilt

-Radio rebuilt, and yes, it works!

-New battery (as of October 2017)

The following items will need some attention:

-The turn signals don't always work, so that should probably be addressed for safety.

-As with nearly every car of this era, the clock doesn't work.

-On occasion, the car will hesitate slightly at the top end of 2ndand 3rdgear. It won't always do it, and I've been driving it this way since September.Every time it happens and I think I'm going to dig into it and figure out what's happening, it will stop doing it. Go figure. I'm 99% sure that it is fuel delivery, i.e. the fuel pump. I am also 99% sure I've already ruled out any vacuum or ignition problems. It's pretty minor, but definitely worth mentioning. Worse case scenario, it will need a new/rebuilt fuel pump. They are readily available from Bob's Buicks (bobsautomobilia.com), among other suppliers. I might have even fixed it by the time you read this, but I have others cars that need attention, which is why I am letting this one go.

-Also, worth mentioning: the tires are old. The tread is good and they aren't dry rotted or cracked, but because it is a safety issue, I want it to be known. I've driven this car at over 50 mph with no problems, but I probably wouldn't do any road trips or extensive highway driving with these tires. I've used the car mostly around town at 25-40 mph, so I didn't feel that was terribly unsafe and worth swapping the tires out, but you may feel differently.

The bottom line is, if you want a perfect, shiny old car with power windows, a small block Chevy, and a DVD player, this probably isn't the car for you. But if you want a solid, all original, survivor car that you can drive and enjoy as-is, or a super solid start for a restoration, you'd be hard pressed to find a better candidate than this car.

To view dozens more photos of the car, including undercarriage shots, etc, and see a video of it running, please visit the gallery here:boardhoarder.use.com(cut and paste the link into your browser,eBay won't let me make the link live)

READ THIS BEFORE YOU BID PLEASE!:
I am the legal owner of this vehicle and have a clear title in my name.No warranty is expressed or implied with the sale. I have made every attempt to describe the car as accurately as possible. It is for sale as-is and where-is (though I am happy to work with your shipping company). This vehicle is for sale locally, as well as on otherinternetsites. I reserve the right to cancel this auction at any time.

PLEASE ask any and all questions before bidding.Thelastthing I want is for you to buy a plane ticket or drive across five states with your trailer in tow, only to get here and find out the car isn't what you wanted. I will answer any question about the car to the best of my ability and if I don't know the answer, I'll find it before the end of the auction. I want this to be a good experience for all parties involved.

A non-refundable deposit in theamountof $1000.00 via PayPal is due within 48 hours of the close of the auction, balance to be paid in cash upon taking possession of the vehicle.

You MUST pick-up the vehicle within 1 week of the close of the auction.
If you are not able to meet these requirements but still want to bid, please contact me BEFORE bidding.
Thanks for looking and good luck!