1979 Volvo 244DLIt's a project, ut it runs and drives like a champ. I'd have no problem driving it across country with an oil change and brake pads/rotors.The body has significant rust along the edges/wheel wells but the frame is solid. The rust is mostly cosmetic with some worse around the trunk. The trunk pan is solid except for the spare tire wells that dip down. I've never seen a 240 without rust here, nd this one is pretty bad. You can actually see the spare tire through the side of the car. Again, ost of the rust is cosmetic and the car is structurally sound. The underside looks surprisingly good for spending most of it's life outdoors in Michigan. I started working on the body and doing some rust repair, hich you can see in the pictures. I ground out a lot of rust and hit it with rust reformer for the pitting I couldn't clean out. I started filling some of the spots and painting as well. Yes, painted the wheels, nd yes, like how it looks. It was also to protect them a bit.Mechanically, t runs pretty well. Not "runs well for 36 years old" but "runs pretty well period." It could use a tune-up because it's idling rough, ut I think the air idle control valve probably just needs cleaned. This is an early K-Jet fuel injection system that seems to be in good order. I've replaced the air filter, 2 sensor, park plugs, nd hood latch within the last few months and it doesn't get driven much. The entire exhaust was new in March 2014. I even have a set of unmounted snow tires (only used one season) that I'll throw in. I also replaced the ignition relay a few months ago and have a spare in the glove box because this is a common issue on these cars. A length of fuel line has also been recently replaced from the tank to the pump due to a leak.The hood doesn't currently open. That's because I'm an idiot. I replaced the hood latch a couple of months ago because the old one was worn and bent, nd the hood kept popping part way open. The new latch was in great shape and went right on, ut I didn't adjust it carefully and it wont release when you pull the the cable inside. A careful hand or a shop should be able to get it open quickly and adjusted, ut I haven't bothered.The brakes are weak and pulse under pressure, o it needs new pads and rotors. I've never had them not work and the calipers seem nice and strong. The rear differential could also use a fluid service because it jerks a little when you take off, ut it smoothes right out. The engine is strong and the transmission shifts smoothly.Interior is also surprisingly good shape for the age, ust dirty and dusty. The back bench seat is fantastic, lmost like this family car was never around kids. The driver seat has a seat cover, resumably because it's destroyed underneath but I've never looked myself. The passenger seat is in good shape too, ut the padding is getting worn down. Dash has ONE crack in it that could possibly be filled. This is the least cracked dash I've ever owned in a car more than 10-15 years old. Dash lights all work and gauges work except for the odometer. It stopped at 66k but it's estimated at 130k miles. The previous owner had the car when it stopped working and drove it relatively little over the years. The heat works but has a mildew odor, nd the AC does not work. The compressor belt has been removed under the hood. Rear defrost works well.The radio "works." The radio is missing the tuning knobs due to a broken shaft, ut there are two preset buttons that can be used to finagle it into a radio station or two, nd one of the presets comes into a local jazz station. I'm proud of the fact that I can tune the radio without the knob, ut I'd still replace it if I was keeping it.I'd love to keep the car because I love the looks of it. The 4 round headlights are pretty sweet. The only reason I'm selling is because I'm a bassist and need something bigger to haul equipment in. My wife and I have a couple of sedans and it's just not cutting it, o this project is the first thing to go. I have a clean, reen Michigan title in hand ready to sign over to the new owner.