1992 Toyota Celica All Trac
1992 Toyota Celica
Technical specifications of Toyota Celica 1992 | |
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Price: | - |
Condition: | Used |
Item location: | Nitro, West Virginia, United States |
Make: | Toyota |
Model: | Celica |
SubModel: | All Trac |
Type: | Coupe |
Year: | 1992 |
Mileage: | 287,828 |
VIN: | JT2ST88P4N0021644 |
Color: | Red |
Engine size: | 2.0L |
Number of cylinders: | 4 |
Power options: | Power Locks, Power Windows |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Manual |
Drive type: | AWD |
Interior color: | Gray |
Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
Vehicle Title: | Rebuilt, Rebuildable & Reconstructed |
You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Car description |
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Up for sale is my 1992 All Trac. This 1 of only 271 imported into the US that year.
Trying this for the third time. EBay is saying that the car has a rebuilt title. I have clean WV title and when I built the car, the New Hampshire title did not show to be branded. I also had the car registered in Texas and it received a clean title there as well. Carfax now shows that there was a rebuilt title issued in Vermont in June of 2003. The car has not been wrecked. The sheet metal is original with the exception of the hood. The All Trac hood that is on it now is not original. The guy I bought it from was in the process of putting the car back to stock and removed a CS hood from the car and replaced it with this. I have been told that the Vermont title most likely was issued due to the mileage at the time, 166K, but I'm not sure. I can say that in the 11 years that I've owned the car there have been zero issues with the chassis and alignments have not been a problem. Everything under the car and the hood are straight.
Now on to the rest of the story.
I bought the car from a guy in New Hampshire in 2006 and I've had it ever since. It's been a great car and I love it but I've reached the point of where it's time to move on.
The car has been little problem in the time that I've had it. Simple maintenance mainly. It does have some rust issues though and I've done my best to try and fix them but I don't have the best welding skills.
I have most of the panels that are needed to finish the body repair. They came from two rust free GT-S Celicas. I'm offering this a project car. It is a good car and I feel that it is savable and has life left in it.Here's the bad:There is rust. I don't think it is terminal with someone with good fab/welding skills. I've got pictures of the bad points below. The left inner rocker is the worst place. The lip on the right rear quarter
had a couple of bad spots that I've cut out. I have the wheel opening to fix it. I've replaced the lower front and rear of the left quarter. The rear panel replacement needs to be finished. I fixed a couple
of places underneath on the left floor pan but they weren't that bad.There is a head gasket leak to the outside of the block on the front of the engine. I believe this happened with the engine overheated a couple of years ago due to a stuck thermostat. I've run exhaust gas checks
and there is no water getting into the oil so it looks like the leak to the outside is the only spot in the gasket. It's not a bad leak but it does require adding cooling every week and a half or so if driving it
regularly.There's a stutter in the ignition under acceleration. You accelerate, hit the stutter and then drive through it. It doesn't do it while cruising. It just started doing this recently.The passenger door latch sticks sometimes and won't let the door open. I just haven't torn the door apart to fix it or replace the latch.These are main bad items. Keep in mind this is a 25 year old car.Here’s the list of what’s on the car that I can think of. I'm sure I've missed something.OEM CS bumper cover and crash bar and factory grille pieces.
ST205 WTA intercooler with Ford Cobra Heat Exchanger and Bosch water pump
Mishimoto aluminum radiator
Full third gen electronics conversion using a Berk conversion harness and a 205 ECU. I have the CEL light issues fixed for the WTA level sensor. No CELs what so ever from the conversion (For those that don’t know, one big piece of this is that it removed the air flow meter).
ST205 550cc injectors with a Mad Katz fuel rail
Twos R Us solid brass shifter bushings
Koni Yellow inserts in front, Koni RACE inserts in converted strut housings in the rear. Not that many miles on them.
B&G lowering springs
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Mario Koenig solid rear diff mount
ST205 Torsen rear diff
4 pretty much new Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 H457 tires. I’ll have to check my log but the fronts probably don’t even have 500 miles. The backs maybe 1-2000.
4 Konig Incident 15x6.5. I painted them a metallic grey as I was never crazy about the polished finish. These are dual bolt pattern, 5x100 and 5x114.3. There in good shape.
TWM short shifter
Have the correct All Trac luggage area cover
Rear strut bar
JDM clear front side markers
Cibie H4 headlight conversion. The shells came out of a Eurospec Mercedes
Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
Blitz Nur Spec Stainless exhaust
Blitz blowoff valve
Seats are in pretty good condition. I replaced the driver’s seat with one out of a GTS several years ago. The passenger seat is good condition. Rear seats are good but dry.
Carpet has seen better days.
Dash is in pretty good shape. Some small holes where someone had mount a phone bracket back in the day.
Pillar gauge pod with Autometer Phantom Boost, and oil pressure gauges.
WRX leather shift knob
AC is still installed but needs leaks fixed.
Cruise control works intermitantly.I’m sure I’m missing some other things. I painted the car with Sherman Williams Automotive Super Red Base/Clear about 7 years ago. With the exception of the repair areas the paint is holding up well. This was my first paint job so there are some runs in the clear.The chassis has 287K+ miles on it. The engine is a JDM replacement with around 150K miles. I’m assuming that the transmission and transfer case are JDM as well but I don’t really know. They work fine and shift good. Timing belt and water pump were changed while I was in Texas. I’ll have to check the exact mileage but it’s probably less than 15K. Toyota belt and Aisin water pump.
Trying this for the third time. EBay is saying that the car has a rebuilt title. I have clean WV title and when I built the car, the New Hampshire title did not show to be branded. I also had the car registered in Texas and it received a clean title there as well. Carfax now shows that there was a rebuilt title issued in Vermont in June of 2003. The car has not been wrecked. The sheet metal is original with the exception of the hood. The All Trac hood that is on it now is not original. The guy I bought it from was in the process of putting the car back to stock and removed a CS hood from the car and replaced it with this. I have been told that the Vermont title most likely was issued due to the mileage at the time, 166K, but I'm not sure. I can say that in the 11 years that I've owned the car there have been zero issues with the chassis and alignments have not been a problem. Everything under the car and the hood are straight.
Now on to the rest of the story.
I bought the car from a guy in New Hampshire in 2006 and I've had it ever since. It's been a great car and I love it but I've reached the point of where it's time to move on.
The car has been little problem in the time that I've had it. Simple maintenance mainly. It does have some rust issues though and I've done my best to try and fix them but I don't have the best welding skills.
I have most of the panels that are needed to finish the body repair. They came from two rust free GT-S Celicas. I'm offering this a project car. It is a good car and I feel that it is savable and has life left in it.Here's the bad:There is rust. I don't think it is terminal with someone with good fab/welding skills. I've got pictures of the bad points below. The left inner rocker is the worst place. The lip on the right rear quarter
had a couple of bad spots that I've cut out. I have the wheel opening to fix it. I've replaced the lower front and rear of the left quarter. The rear panel replacement needs to be finished. I fixed a couple
of places underneath on the left floor pan but they weren't that bad.There is a head gasket leak to the outside of the block on the front of the engine. I believe this happened with the engine overheated a couple of years ago due to a stuck thermostat. I've run exhaust gas checks
and there is no water getting into the oil so it looks like the leak to the outside is the only spot in the gasket. It's not a bad leak but it does require adding cooling every week and a half or so if driving it
regularly.There's a stutter in the ignition under acceleration. You accelerate, hit the stutter and then drive through it. It doesn't do it while cruising. It just started doing this recently.The passenger door latch sticks sometimes and won't let the door open. I just haven't torn the door apart to fix it or replace the latch.These are main bad items. Keep in mind this is a 25 year old car.Here’s the list of what’s on the car that I can think of. I'm sure I've missed something.OEM CS bumper cover and crash bar and factory grille pieces.
ST205 WTA intercooler with Ford Cobra Heat Exchanger and Bosch water pump
Mishimoto aluminum radiator
Full third gen electronics conversion using a Berk conversion harness and a 205 ECU. I have the CEL light issues fixed for the WTA level sensor. No CELs what so ever from the conversion (For those that don’t know, one big piece of this is that it removed the air flow meter).
ST205 550cc injectors with a Mad Katz fuel rail
Twos R Us solid brass shifter bushings
Koni Yellow inserts in front, Koni RACE inserts in converted strut housings in the rear. Not that many miles on them.
B&G lowering springs
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Mario Koenig solid rear diff mount
ST205 Torsen rear diff
4 pretty much new Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 H457 tires. I’ll have to check my log but the fronts probably don’t even have 500 miles. The backs maybe 1-2000.
4 Konig Incident 15x6.5. I painted them a metallic grey as I was never crazy about the polished finish. These are dual bolt pattern, 5x100 and 5x114.3. There in good shape.
TWM short shifter
Have the correct All Trac luggage area cover
Rear strut bar
JDM clear front side markers
Cibie H4 headlight conversion. The shells came out of a Eurospec Mercedes
Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
Blitz Nur Spec Stainless exhaust
Blitz blowoff valve
Seats are in pretty good condition. I replaced the driver’s seat with one out of a GTS several years ago. The passenger seat is good condition. Rear seats are good but dry.
Carpet has seen better days.
Dash is in pretty good shape. Some small holes where someone had mount a phone bracket back in the day.
Pillar gauge pod with Autometer Phantom Boost, and oil pressure gauges.
WRX leather shift knob
AC is still installed but needs leaks fixed.
Cruise control works intermitantly.I’m sure I’m missing some other things. I painted the car with Sherman Williams Automotive Super Red Base/Clear about 7 years ago. With the exception of the repair areas the paint is holding up well. This was my first paint job so there are some runs in the clear.The chassis has 287K+ miles on it. The engine is a JDM replacement with around 150K miles. I’m assuming that the transmission and transfer case are JDM as well but I don’t really know. They work fine and shift good. Timing belt and water pump were changed while I was in Texas. I’ll have to check the exact mileage but it’s probably less than 15K. Toyota belt and Aisin water pump.