1949 Studebaker 2R-16 1.5 Ton, Completely Original Dually Truck SOLID BODY
1949 Studebaker 2R-16 Model C Cab
Technical specifications of Studebaker 2R-16 1949 | |
|---|---|
| Price: | - |
| Item location: | Santa Cruz, California, United States |
| Make: | Studebaker |
| Model: | 2R-16 |
| Type: | Cab & Chassis |
| Trim: | Model C Cab |
| Year: | 1949 |
| Mileage: | 41,125 |
| Color: | Blue |
| Engine size: | Commander Flathead Straight 6 |
| Number of cylinders: | 6 |
| Fuel: | Gasoline |
| Transmission: | Manual |
| Drive type: | RWD |
| Interior color: | Blue and Tan |
| Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
| Options: | PTO, 2 Speed Rear Axle |
| Vehicle Title: | Clear |
| You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Car description |
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This 1949 Studebaker 2R-16 1.5 ton truck is in complete original condition. EVERYTHING is here and original (sans the addition of an electrical fuel pump, but original mechanical pump is still attached). It has a side draft flathead Commander 6 cylinder engine. I bought this truck from an ole timer out in Iowa last spring and have since spent thousands of dollars gathering pieces and having things rebuilt. The truck was primarily used for a county fair out in Iowa, moving stuff around etc. It has a vacuum actuated 2 speed Timkin rear axle. I just had the Hydrovac brake system completely rebuilt at Vehicles of Victory out in West Virginia. It has a four speed transmission with a rear facing PTO! I have (potentially the very last in America) a brand new in-box OEM Wagner master cylinder from a purveyor in Kansas. The casting for this master cylinder is obsolete and impossible to find for this era of truck...the truck was used for 50 years so has tiny spots of topical rust, dings and small dents but the body panels are SOLID, nothing major -- see pictures.
Other things I have bought (and go with the truck to winning bidder) in hope of restoring are:Brand new 6v Optima Battery
Brand new laminated front windshield glass
Entire wiring harness
Alternator rebuild kit
Plugs and leads from distributor
Brake cylinder rebuild kits for all wheels
Head, pan, and water pump gaskets
Oil filled ignition coil
CondenserCarb rebuild kit forCarter BBR1Shift knob, hood bumpers, oil filterThermostatAnd lots more odds and ends
I have a copy of the original shop manual for the 2R series trucks as well. The engine has around 41k, is free and rotates smoothly, I have looked at all of the cylinders, nothing major. Small lip at top, some valves replaced. The truck belonged to previous owners father and hasn't been run since the mid 90's when he passed away. This truck is not currently running but wouldn't need much to get there. The ONLY modification to the entire truck is a small square of fire wall was cut out at some point -- you can see it on left in the engine bay picture. The owner's son took great care of it and rotated engine often and kept it in a giant barn for 20 years. The body is in incredible shape for a '49!- ORIGINAL paint looks great, one area of rust out on passenger side floor pan, and two small areas just in front of the door on the quarter panels, cab interior is incredibly clean compared to other trucks on eBay, seriously clean. Everything is operational, like window rollers, locks etc. It shifts through all four gears and wheel bearings are good, steers and rolls with ease. I bought it to completely restore and build a flatbed for a work truck, and I still might if no one is interested in this project. I have Iowa Title, Affidavit and bill of sale. Has been out of the DMV long enough for no fees.
I would put money on this being the cleanest '49 Studebaker in original condition in CA.
I have about $5900 invested as of now, receipts are proof and go with the truck. All put back together with flatbed this truck would sell for $14k easy.
As of right now the engine is partially disassembled, but everything is neatly in boxes ready to be reinstalled, engine block, carb and head remain in bay. Honestly, there are two things needed to get this amazing original truck back on the road, a cooling jacket flush and a reseal (of which I have most all of the seals). The pictures showing the super clean cab were taken 10 days ago, the first two pictures (a bit dusty) were taken over the summer before I started work on it.
I can help load it on a flat bed or what ever you choose, but shipping is up to you. It is for sale locally and reserve the right to end auction at any time. Look at pictures and ask questions, thanks! I have used shipping forums like UShip with great success.>>>I will answer the questions I have received from eBay users here - for all to see.- all 6 tires hold air just fine, all 4 of the rear tires are in good condition.- all of the bolts I have removed have turned freely, non were seized or have broken. The only hardware that was replaced are the four bolts holding the front bumper on.- I have not touched the distributor base so it should be in time. I removed the cap and the points look good, shiny metal. I have numbered the first and last lead nipples for firing order (#'s 1 & 4 respectively).- all of the bolts I have removed (and/or put back on) have turned freely, non have broken. I have only replaced the four that attach the bumper since they were mismatched.- I don't know the condition of the carburetor innards as I have not removed it, I have the rebuild kit with instructions and would assume that rebuilding it before firing it up is a good idea. I did get a quote from Daytona Parts in FL for a full rebuild and bench test for $220.- for shipping or freight I will put all of the extras and new parts in the cab and I can tarp it as best I can before it leaves.- yes, I have the passenger side door lock tumbler, it was removed to have it match the key blanks I have for the ignition.- there is NO rust on the cylinder walls, clean oiled metal, the pistons have not been removed.Any other questions send em my way and I can answer them here! Thanks.
Other things I have bought (and go with the truck to winning bidder) in hope of restoring are:Brand new 6v Optima Battery
Brand new laminated front windshield glass
Entire wiring harness
Alternator rebuild kit
Plugs and leads from distributor
Brake cylinder rebuild kits for all wheels
Head, pan, and water pump gaskets
Oil filled ignition coil
CondenserCarb rebuild kit forCarter BBR1Shift knob, hood bumpers, oil filterThermostatAnd lots more odds and ends
I have a copy of the original shop manual for the 2R series trucks as well. The engine has around 41k, is free and rotates smoothly, I have looked at all of the cylinders, nothing major. Small lip at top, some valves replaced. The truck belonged to previous owners father and hasn't been run since the mid 90's when he passed away. This truck is not currently running but wouldn't need much to get there. The ONLY modification to the entire truck is a small square of fire wall was cut out at some point -- you can see it on left in the engine bay picture. The owner's son took great care of it and rotated engine often and kept it in a giant barn for 20 years. The body is in incredible shape for a '49!- ORIGINAL paint looks great, one area of rust out on passenger side floor pan, and two small areas just in front of the door on the quarter panels, cab interior is incredibly clean compared to other trucks on eBay, seriously clean. Everything is operational, like window rollers, locks etc. It shifts through all four gears and wheel bearings are good, steers and rolls with ease. I bought it to completely restore and build a flatbed for a work truck, and I still might if no one is interested in this project. I have Iowa Title, Affidavit and bill of sale. Has been out of the DMV long enough for no fees.
I would put money on this being the cleanest '49 Studebaker in original condition in CA.
I have about $5900 invested as of now, receipts are proof and go with the truck. All put back together with flatbed this truck would sell for $14k easy.
As of right now the engine is partially disassembled, but everything is neatly in boxes ready to be reinstalled, engine block, carb and head remain in bay. Honestly, there are two things needed to get this amazing original truck back on the road, a cooling jacket flush and a reseal (of which I have most all of the seals). The pictures showing the super clean cab were taken 10 days ago, the first two pictures (a bit dusty) were taken over the summer before I started work on it.
I can help load it on a flat bed or what ever you choose, but shipping is up to you. It is for sale locally and reserve the right to end auction at any time. Look at pictures and ask questions, thanks! I have used shipping forums like UShip with great success.>>>I will answer the questions I have received from eBay users here - for all to see.- all 6 tires hold air just fine, all 4 of the rear tires are in good condition.- all of the bolts I have removed have turned freely, non were seized or have broken. The only hardware that was replaced are the four bolts holding the front bumper on.- I have not touched the distributor base so it should be in time. I removed the cap and the points look good, shiny metal. I have numbered the first and last lead nipples for firing order (#'s 1 & 4 respectively).- all of the bolts I have removed (and/or put back on) have turned freely, non have broken. I have only replaced the four that attach the bumper since they were mismatched.- I don't know the condition of the carburetor innards as I have not removed it, I have the rebuild kit with instructions and would assume that rebuilding it before firing it up is a good idea. I did get a quote from Daytona Parts in FL for a full rebuild and bench test for $220.- for shipping or freight I will put all of the extras and new parts in the cab and I can tarp it as best I can before it leaves.- yes, I have the passenger side door lock tumbler, it was removed to have it match the key blanks I have for the ignition.- there is NO rust on the cylinder walls, clean oiled metal, the pistons have not been removed.Any other questions send em my way and I can answer them here! Thanks.
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