1965 Pontiac GTO, PHS, Tri-power, 4-speed
1965 Pontiac GTO
Technical specifications of Pontiac GTO 1965 | |
---|---|
Price: | - |
Condition: | Used |
Item location: | Kingwood, Texas, United States |
Make: | Pontiac |
Model: | GTO |
Type: | Hardtop |
Year: | 1965 |
Mileage: | 900,000 |
VIN: | 237375P301307 |
Color: | Blue |
Engine size: | 400 |
Number of cylinders: | 8 |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Manual |
Drive type: | RWD |
Interior color: | Black |
Vehicle Title: | Clear |
You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Car description |
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1965 Pontiac GTO hardtop
PHS documented
Sold new at Cooke Pontiac in Louisville, KY
This was a low option car when new.
Power steering, power brakes, deluxe front seat belts and the Tri-Power setup have been added.
I have many more high quality photos, if you are seriously interested. Please msg me and I will send you a link to them. eBay will not let me post the link here.
I purchased this car in Oct. 2003.
Below is basically what I have done to the car while I've owned it. When you look though this list please keep in mind that the car has always been garage kept and is vary rarely driven. Most of the items that I've replaced, even though it may have been a few years ago, are still in like new condition. I just don't drive it that much. Honestly, the only time it gets driven is on nice cool days in the spring and fall. The Texas summers are just too hot for me to enjoy driving it. The rest of the time, it sits in the garage with a battery tender hooked up to it. I've thought about installing an air conditioning kit but, at this point, that will be up to the new owner.
I've included prices on some items just to kinda give you some perspective. I've kept almost all of the receipts and they are organized in files. Please keep in mind that this is just to give you a rough idea of what has gone into this car so far. There's lots of other small items that I'm sure I've missed.
Engine:
- rebuilt in 2005
- Pontiac 400 block bored .040" over
- Flat top 2 valve relief pistons. 11:1 compression. (runs good on 93 octane)
- Crower Hyd. cam #60243 (this cam was installed in May 2010)
- Crower Cams hyd. lifters
- Comp Cams timing chain set
- Comp Cams push rods
- Reconditioned factory rods w/ARP bolts
- ARP head bolts
- Moroso 7qt. oil pan and pickup tube
- RobbMc Pontiac Mini starter w/pinion support ($300) These are great starters!
Cylinder Heads:
- rebuilt in 2005
- Pontiac 670 heads
- HP valve job
- Bronze guides and new seals
- New exhaust valve seats
- New Valves
- Comp Cams valve springs
- Resurfaced and magnafluxed
- Bowls were opened up and blended
- Intake ports were gasket matched
- Factory Pontiac guide plates
- 1.65 Stainless roller rockers
- 7/16" screw in studs
- Cal-Custom aluminum valve covers
Correct 1965 Pontiac Tri-Power intake and carbs.
The intake manifold was not port matched. It actually matches up pretty close so, I decided to leave it alone.
K&N filters. New chrome lids.
The carbs have been very carefully tuned and updated with seals and accelerator pumps for use with ethanol blended gas. A new throttle shaft was installed in the center carb.
They run very well! They are actually not hard to tune once you have them set up correctly.
Summit CD ignition box with rev limiter. The box is hidden under the rear package tray.
Pontiac distributor w/adjustable vacuum advance and spring kit. The points are only used as a trigger for the CD ignition box. This works very good!
Taylor plug wires
Griffin Aluminum radiator w/factory style tanks. Painted black, it looks almost original ($597.64)
- 4 core radiator conversion mounts from Ames ($32)
- Repro upper and lower radiator hoses from Ames
- Repro 1965 fan guard w/right hand filler correct for Tri-Power from Ames ($72)
AC Delco battery installed 4-12-16 ($108.46)
Legendary Battery topper and tag ($55)
Correct battery hold down, bolt, and hardware from Ames ($27)
**The charging system was converted to a internally regulated alternator by using a simple adapter harness. It could easily be changed back, if you wanted. The old voltage regulator was gutted and now hides the conversion plug.**
Exhaust System:
- Ram Air manifolds w/2.5" outlets and 2.5" mandrel bent head pipes and flanges from Ram Air Restoration ($517)
- 2.5" universal "X" pipe kit from Ram Air Restoration ($193)
- 2.5" mandrel bent tail pipe kit from Torque Tech ($298.30)
- 2.5" stainless Goerlich XLerator mufflers w/18" case ($97.90)
Transmission:
-Munice M20 wide ratio. Rebuilt in April 2014.
-New hardened clutch hubs ($64)
-New Torque Lock sliders ($59)
-New front main bearing
-New mid plate bearing
-New synchronizer rings
-New tail shaft bushing
-New gaskets and seals
- New steel speedo drive gear
Hayes steel flywheel ($155)
11" clutch
Clutch linkage kit w/spherical rod ends from Speed Direct. (This is a great kit. It removes all of the slop normally found in the worn factory linkage. Plus, it's very smooth.)
New 3" driveshaft assy., slip yoke and rear end pinion yoke ($455)
Front Suspension:
- Quick ratio 12.7:1 power steering box from Lee Manufacturing -Dec. 2012 ($469.10)
- New steering coupler (rag joint) and hardware from Ames Performance ($46)
- 1.25" front sway bar w/poly bushings ($155)
- New coil springs from Coil Spring Specialties with a 15% spring rate increase from the factory rate to match the rear springs ($204.81)
- Monroe SensaTrac shocks
- New center link, inner tie rod ends, and tie rod sleeves from Rare Parts ($243.13)
- New Moog outer tie rod ends ($43.28)
- Upper and lower control arms were rebuilt with new Moog ball joints and bushings. I used rubber bushings in the control arms because I learned my lesson with poly control arm bushings years ago. ($100 labor + parts)
- Front end was rebuilt in Oct of 2009
** I have the car aligned to more modern specs. I tried to get as much positive caster as I could to improve the handling. I think the alignment has about 3 degrees positive caster, .5 degree negative camber and, 1/8" toe in. Overall, the car handles and rides nice and the tires seem to be wearing evenly.**
Rear Suspension:
- New Moog 6197 springs. These are the factory springs used in a 1965 Chevelle SS. They sit just a little higher than the factory GTO springs and still have a nice ride. ($76.67)
- Monroe SensaTrac shocks
- Edelbrock adjustable upper control arms ($225.95)
- PMT Fabrication lower control arms with Currie spherical bearings on the frame end. These are really nice control arms! ($199.99)
- BMR control arm mount reinforcement braces ($113.97)
- Addco 1" rear sway bar powder coated black ($153.95)
Rear Axle:
- Currie 12 bolt crate rear end ($2836.00)
- stock width for 1965 A-body
- 3:42 gear ratio
- Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differential
- 30 spline bolt in axles
- Ford 9" large bearing ends
- 11" drum brakes w/stock wheel studs
- New 1965 GTO rear coil spring hold down clamps ($37)
- New rear axle brake lines from The Right Stuff ($51)
- New GM 12 bolt rear brake hose bracket and flex hose w/block ($41)
Brakes:
- The factory front drum brakes have been removed and front disc brakes installed
- OEM disc brake spindles
- OEM disc brake caliper brackets
- New brake rotors
- New Timken wheel bearings and seals
- Remanufactured calipers from NAPA
- Hawk HPS front brake pads ($54)
- New correct 9" Delco style booster w/o stamp ($109)
- New correct style GM dual master cylinder w/bleeders ($79)
- Summit Racing adjustable prop valve ($104)
- New brake lines from master to prop valve and from prop valve to wheels
- New front flex hoses ($24)
- New brake caliper banjo bolts
- New caliper mounting bracket bolts
- New front to rear brake line and rear tee fitting
** The brakes work very good! Don't let the rear drums fool you. Unless you are planning on driving the car on a autocross track, rear drums are plenty for street use. The Hawk HPS pads are great. This car stops very well.**
Wheels and tires:
- Factory 14x6 Pontiac Rally 1 wheels. Not reproductions! ($800)
- New reproduction Pontiac Rally 1 center caps ($267)
- New brushed Rally trim ring set from Ames ($299)
- New correct style Rally 1 lug nut set from Ames ($54)
- Diamond Back Classics 225-70R14 Redline tires ($980)
- tires are almost like new. There's probably less than 100 miles on them.
Interior:
- Restored and rechromed dash housing from The Parts Place ($329)
- Dash clock w/updated movement and new harness ($214) It keeps very good time!
- Autometer Tach
- New Day-Night rear view mirror from Ames ($69)
- New shifter boot and trim plate from Ames
- New turn signal switch ($82)
- New billet sealed lower steering column roller bearing from Tin Indian Performance ($78)
- New headlight switch
- New complete dome lamp assy from Ames
- Repro set of factory style floor mats from Ames ($120)
- Deluxe front seatbelts were added to this car. New Fisher Coach emblems were put on the buckles.
- New chrome front armrest bases ($30 pr.)
- New chrome rear armrest bases ($32 pr.)
- New trunk divider board and insulation
- CT sounds sound deadener installed under rear seat and rear floor pans. (I think have enough extra sheets to finish the front floor pans after new sections are welded in.)
Exterior:
- the rear tail panel was rechromed ($389.55) and refinished by me
- Correct 1965 oval mast and oval grooved tip antenna kit from Ames ($189)
- new GTO grill emblem
- new deck lid arrowhead emblem from Ames ($22)
- new deck lid GTO emblem ($20)
- new drivers door mirror
- new left and right 1/4 window chrome sash channels ($68)
- new license plate lamp assy.
- restored pair of correct 1965 Pontiac GTO horns from The Horn Works ($232.95) They look and sound great! He does good work!
- new horn relay
- New hood to cowl seal
- the engine wiring harness has been replaced
***Ok, now for the bad.***
The car does have some rust that will need to be fixed. I'll try to be completely honest and upfront about what needs to be done but, I'm not a body guy and my knowledge about body work is limited.
If you're a body guy this could be a good project for you. I'd love to blow the car apart, do it right and, paint it back the original color but, I just don't have the space for it and I need to sell it.
- It will probably need a complete trunk floor. The trunk floor is very pitted and has some small holes in it. The areas behind the rear wheels/body mounts are badly rusted. You'd probably be better off putting a complete one piece trunk floor in it.
- The trunk drop offs are rusted.
- The outer wheel houses are rusted and need to be replaced.
- The body mounts behind the rear wheels are rusted out and need to be replaced.
- The is a spot on the front left corner of the hood that is rusted (bubbled up) and will need to be repaired.
- Both of the front floor pans will need new sections cut in. I don't think it needs a complete front floor pan -- just the area where your feet normally rest.
- There is rust in the lower areas of the cowl vents (kick panel vents). There were leaves and debris in there that caused that area to rust. I cleaned that area out and sprayed some rust conversion stuff in there but, it will need to be repaired.
- The seats need work. The foam for the front seats are badly worn and deteriorated. The front covers are fair but, the foam needs to be replaced. There is a small tear in the rear seat back cover at one of the seams.
- The windshield wipers work but, they are slow and they will not go to the park position on their own.
- There is an AM radio in the dash but, I don't know if it works or not -- there are no speakers in the car. All other items in the dash work and all of the lights work.
- The windshield washers do not work. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump is missing.
- I'm sure there's probably other things that may need attention once you get into it but, I think I've covered the major issues. Make no mistake - the body needs some work and the paint is not perfect.
Overall, I'd call it a decent 30 footer that drives, handles, stops and runs good.
I'll be happy to answer any questions about the car over the phone. My cell: 832-493-7107
Be advised that I work odd hours so, I may not be able to answer when you call. Please leave a msg. and I will call you back.
**No tire kickers. Only serious buyers.**
**No international shipping.**
**No warranty is expressed or implied.**
*** $1000 deposit is due at the end of the auction and full payment is due within 7 days from end of the auction. ***
On Mar-12-17 at 16:25:57 PDT, seller added the following information:
PHS documented
Sold new at Cooke Pontiac in Louisville, KY
This was a low option car when new.
Power steering, power brakes, deluxe front seat belts and the Tri-Power setup have been added.
I have many more high quality photos, if you are seriously interested. Please msg me and I will send you a link to them. eBay will not let me post the link here.
I purchased this car in Oct. 2003.
Below is basically what I have done to the car while I've owned it. When you look though this list please keep in mind that the car has always been garage kept and is vary rarely driven. Most of the items that I've replaced, even though it may have been a few years ago, are still in like new condition. I just don't drive it that much. Honestly, the only time it gets driven is on nice cool days in the spring and fall. The Texas summers are just too hot for me to enjoy driving it. The rest of the time, it sits in the garage with a battery tender hooked up to it. I've thought about installing an air conditioning kit but, at this point, that will be up to the new owner.
I've included prices on some items just to kinda give you some perspective. I've kept almost all of the receipts and they are organized in files. Please keep in mind that this is just to give you a rough idea of what has gone into this car so far. There's lots of other small items that I'm sure I've missed.
Engine:
- rebuilt in 2005
- Pontiac 400 block bored .040" over
- Flat top 2 valve relief pistons. 11:1 compression. (runs good on 93 octane)
- Crower Hyd. cam #60243 (this cam was installed in May 2010)
- Crower Cams hyd. lifters
- Comp Cams timing chain set
- Comp Cams push rods
- Reconditioned factory rods w/ARP bolts
- ARP head bolts
- Moroso 7qt. oil pan and pickup tube
- RobbMc Pontiac Mini starter w/pinion support ($300) These are great starters!
Cylinder Heads:
- rebuilt in 2005
- Pontiac 670 heads
- HP valve job
- Bronze guides and new seals
- New exhaust valve seats
- New Valves
- Comp Cams valve springs
- Resurfaced and magnafluxed
- Bowls were opened up and blended
- Intake ports were gasket matched
- Factory Pontiac guide plates
- 1.65 Stainless roller rockers
- 7/16" screw in studs
- Cal-Custom aluminum valve covers
Correct 1965 Pontiac Tri-Power intake and carbs.
The intake manifold was not port matched. It actually matches up pretty close so, I decided to leave it alone.
K&N filters. New chrome lids.
The carbs have been very carefully tuned and updated with seals and accelerator pumps for use with ethanol blended gas. A new throttle shaft was installed in the center carb.
They run very well! They are actually not hard to tune once you have them set up correctly.
Summit CD ignition box with rev limiter. The box is hidden under the rear package tray.
Pontiac distributor w/adjustable vacuum advance and spring kit. The points are only used as a trigger for the CD ignition box. This works very good!
Taylor plug wires
Griffin Aluminum radiator w/factory style tanks. Painted black, it looks almost original ($597.64)
- 4 core radiator conversion mounts from Ames ($32)
- Repro upper and lower radiator hoses from Ames
- Repro 1965 fan guard w/right hand filler correct for Tri-Power from Ames ($72)
AC Delco battery installed 4-12-16 ($108.46)
Legendary Battery topper and tag ($55)
Correct battery hold down, bolt, and hardware from Ames ($27)
**The charging system was converted to a internally regulated alternator by using a simple adapter harness. It could easily be changed back, if you wanted. The old voltage regulator was gutted and now hides the conversion plug.**
Exhaust System:
- Ram Air manifolds w/2.5" outlets and 2.5" mandrel bent head pipes and flanges from Ram Air Restoration ($517)
- 2.5" universal "X" pipe kit from Ram Air Restoration ($193)
- 2.5" mandrel bent tail pipe kit from Torque Tech ($298.30)
- 2.5" stainless Goerlich XLerator mufflers w/18" case ($97.90)
Transmission:
-Munice M20 wide ratio. Rebuilt in April 2014.
-New hardened clutch hubs ($64)
-New Torque Lock sliders ($59)
-New front main bearing
-New mid plate bearing
-New synchronizer rings
-New tail shaft bushing
-New gaskets and seals
- New steel speedo drive gear
Hayes steel flywheel ($155)
11" clutch
Clutch linkage kit w/spherical rod ends from Speed Direct. (This is a great kit. It removes all of the slop normally found in the worn factory linkage. Plus, it's very smooth.)
New 3" driveshaft assy., slip yoke and rear end pinion yoke ($455)
Front Suspension:
- Quick ratio 12.7:1 power steering box from Lee Manufacturing -Dec. 2012 ($469.10)
- New steering coupler (rag joint) and hardware from Ames Performance ($46)
- 1.25" front sway bar w/poly bushings ($155)
- New coil springs from Coil Spring Specialties with a 15% spring rate increase from the factory rate to match the rear springs ($204.81)
- Monroe SensaTrac shocks
- New center link, inner tie rod ends, and tie rod sleeves from Rare Parts ($243.13)
- New Moog outer tie rod ends ($43.28)
- Upper and lower control arms were rebuilt with new Moog ball joints and bushings. I used rubber bushings in the control arms because I learned my lesson with poly control arm bushings years ago. ($100 labor + parts)
- Front end was rebuilt in Oct of 2009
** I have the car aligned to more modern specs. I tried to get as much positive caster as I could to improve the handling. I think the alignment has about 3 degrees positive caster, .5 degree negative camber and, 1/8" toe in. Overall, the car handles and rides nice and the tires seem to be wearing evenly.**
Rear Suspension:
- New Moog 6197 springs. These are the factory springs used in a 1965 Chevelle SS. They sit just a little higher than the factory GTO springs and still have a nice ride. ($76.67)
- Monroe SensaTrac shocks
- Edelbrock adjustable upper control arms ($225.95)
- PMT Fabrication lower control arms with Currie spherical bearings on the frame end. These are really nice control arms! ($199.99)
- BMR control arm mount reinforcement braces ($113.97)
- Addco 1" rear sway bar powder coated black ($153.95)
Rear Axle:
- Currie 12 bolt crate rear end ($2836.00)
- stock width for 1965 A-body
- 3:42 gear ratio
- Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differential
- 30 spline bolt in axles
- Ford 9" large bearing ends
- 11" drum brakes w/stock wheel studs
- New 1965 GTO rear coil spring hold down clamps ($37)
- New rear axle brake lines from The Right Stuff ($51)
- New GM 12 bolt rear brake hose bracket and flex hose w/block ($41)
Brakes:
- The factory front drum brakes have been removed and front disc brakes installed
- OEM disc brake spindles
- OEM disc brake caliper brackets
- New brake rotors
- New Timken wheel bearings and seals
- Remanufactured calipers from NAPA
- Hawk HPS front brake pads ($54)
- New correct 9" Delco style booster w/o stamp ($109)
- New correct style GM dual master cylinder w/bleeders ($79)
- Summit Racing adjustable prop valve ($104)
- New brake lines from master to prop valve and from prop valve to wheels
- New front flex hoses ($24)
- New brake caliper banjo bolts
- New caliper mounting bracket bolts
- New front to rear brake line and rear tee fitting
** The brakes work very good! Don't let the rear drums fool you. Unless you are planning on driving the car on a autocross track, rear drums are plenty for street use. The Hawk HPS pads are great. This car stops very well.**
Wheels and tires:
- Factory 14x6 Pontiac Rally 1 wheels. Not reproductions! ($800)
- New reproduction Pontiac Rally 1 center caps ($267)
- New brushed Rally trim ring set from Ames ($299)
- New correct style Rally 1 lug nut set from Ames ($54)
- Diamond Back Classics 225-70R14 Redline tires ($980)
- tires are almost like new. There's probably less than 100 miles on them.
Interior:
- Restored and rechromed dash housing from The Parts Place ($329)
- Dash clock w/updated movement and new harness ($214) It keeps very good time!
- Autometer Tach
- New Day-Night rear view mirror from Ames ($69)
- New shifter boot and trim plate from Ames
- New turn signal switch ($82)
- New billet sealed lower steering column roller bearing from Tin Indian Performance ($78)
- New headlight switch
- New complete dome lamp assy from Ames
- Repro set of factory style floor mats from Ames ($120)
- Deluxe front seatbelts were added to this car. New Fisher Coach emblems were put on the buckles.
- New chrome front armrest bases ($30 pr.)
- New chrome rear armrest bases ($32 pr.)
- New trunk divider board and insulation
- CT sounds sound deadener installed under rear seat and rear floor pans. (I think have enough extra sheets to finish the front floor pans after new sections are welded in.)
Exterior:
- the rear tail panel was rechromed ($389.55) and refinished by me
- Correct 1965 oval mast and oval grooved tip antenna kit from Ames ($189)
- new GTO grill emblem
- new deck lid arrowhead emblem from Ames ($22)
- new deck lid GTO emblem ($20)
- new drivers door mirror
- new left and right 1/4 window chrome sash channels ($68)
- new license plate lamp assy.
- restored pair of correct 1965 Pontiac GTO horns from The Horn Works ($232.95) They look and sound great! He does good work!
- new horn relay
- New hood to cowl seal
- the engine wiring harness has been replaced
***Ok, now for the bad.***
The car does have some rust that will need to be fixed. I'll try to be completely honest and upfront about what needs to be done but, I'm not a body guy and my knowledge about body work is limited.
If you're a body guy this could be a good project for you. I'd love to blow the car apart, do it right and, paint it back the original color but, I just don't have the space for it and I need to sell it.
- It will probably need a complete trunk floor. The trunk floor is very pitted and has some small holes in it. The areas behind the rear wheels/body mounts are badly rusted. You'd probably be better off putting a complete one piece trunk floor in it.
- The trunk drop offs are rusted.
- The outer wheel houses are rusted and need to be replaced.
- The body mounts behind the rear wheels are rusted out and need to be replaced.
- The is a spot on the front left corner of the hood that is rusted (bubbled up) and will need to be repaired.
- Both of the front floor pans will need new sections cut in. I don't think it needs a complete front floor pan -- just the area where your feet normally rest.
- There is rust in the lower areas of the cowl vents (kick panel vents). There were leaves and debris in there that caused that area to rust. I cleaned that area out and sprayed some rust conversion stuff in there but, it will need to be repaired.
- The seats need work. The foam for the front seats are badly worn and deteriorated. The front covers are fair but, the foam needs to be replaced. There is a small tear in the rear seat back cover at one of the seams.
- The windshield wipers work but, they are slow and they will not go to the park position on their own.
- There is an AM radio in the dash but, I don't know if it works or not -- there are no speakers in the car. All other items in the dash work and all of the lights work.
- The windshield washers do not work. The tubing from the reservoir to the pump is missing.
- I'm sure there's probably other things that may need attention once you get into it but, I think I've covered the major issues. Make no mistake - the body needs some work and the paint is not perfect.
Overall, I'd call it a decent 30 footer that drives, handles, stops and runs good.
I'll be happy to answer any questions about the car over the phone. My cell: 832-493-7107
Be advised that I work odd hours so, I may not be able to answer when you call. Please leave a msg. and I will call you back.
**No tire kickers. Only serious buyers.**
**No international shipping.**
**No warranty is expressed or implied.**
*** $1000 deposit is due at the end of the auction and full payment is due within 7 days from end of the auction. ***
On Mar-12-17 at 16:25:57 PDT, seller added the following information:
Edit- The rear main seal also leaks some oil. It's not horrible but, I thought I should mention it. From what I hear, that's a common thing on these cars.