1974 Plymouth Scamp Factory 318 Disc Brakes

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1974 Plymouth Valiant Scamp, factory 318 with disc brakes, factory AC car.Clean and clear title. I have upgraded a number of items on this car, but it still is a project and is imperfect and has quirks. Runs, drives, stops - just needs time and work.
Car is now inspected and registered. I had to pull all fuses, clean up fuse box, clean horn relay connections, and install a new horn. I have learned my lesson and use dielectric grease on all electrical connections. So now brake lights and horn function as they should.
I have created a video on YouTube of this Scamp. Search on '1974 Plymouth Scamp 318 eBay 201723268080'. I will cover the car in much greater detail in the video. If you can't find the video, please let me know.
Purchased this car about 4 years ago on eBay for too much money - car was not described fully and although seller said he was a Christian he obviously was more interested in money. As a result, my son and I put a lot of money and effort into it to get it this far. My son is now off to college and after a year there decided to buy another project - and so this one needs to go.
This is a stock 318 rebuilt some years prior to us purchasing it. I would assume it has a stock grind and as it has never pinged on regular unleaded, the stock compression.
We upgraded the sickly stock 2bbl with an Edelbrock LD40 (Performer) intake and 600CFM carb, using a Holley fuel pump and pressure regulator so it is easy on gas and more reliable. New Powermaster one wire alternator + heavy power wire down to starter solenoid. Converted the original ignition to GM HEI (with power relay to protect ignition switch) with stock distributor. New power wires with correct fusible links run from starter relay to dash power (called a fleet bypass in the 70s). Headlight relays provide much brighter headlights. Improved grounds in the engine bay for proper charging. A casual observer cannot tell this is not a stock setup.
Car starts up well. I think the pushrod seals have a slight leak as it puff/smokes on startup when hot after having been driving and then parked. When it is cold - no smoke. Faint lifter tick. As well, there are other leaks that are annoying - you'll have to chase these down. These types of things may or may not self-repair if the car was driven more (only drive around the neighborhood once a month).
Original AC is not functioning but compressor turns freely as it should. When you move the selector over to AC, the compressor clutch engages. Heater works good.
I believe there is a coolant leak but I cannot tell where it is coming from.
New PST tubular upper A arms with delrin bushings, rebuilt factory sway bar lower control arms with new bushings, upgraded tie rods, T/A style faster idler arm, PST indexed 1.03" torsion bars and new bushings. Rebuilt Mopar Police steering box for a slightly firmer road feel and quicker ratio. New Monroe shocks. Delrin bushings squeak a bit when they are cold. Have Helwig front and rear anti-sway bars to install (come with vehicle). Car is comfortable and loves to take corners.
Factory front disc brakes have not been touched as they work well. I am including new flexible lines for front and rear.
Rear factory 4 leaf rear springs, new Monroe coil overs (I followed the advice of a mopar guy who liked the stance, but I would prefer going back to a lower profile). I am including new heavier duty rear leaf springs if you want them.
This car uses the wider standard 5 bolt pattern. Chrome wheels are just ok. New tires.
The car was blue with a black interior when we bought it. We had the car painted Sherwood Green (a factory color correct for this year, but mostly used on Satellites). Car has rust in lower rear quarters that body guy grinded off and then bondo'd - so when they painted it, started bubbling again. There is rust in the passenger forward floor pan. Most of this was from sitting too long under a tree. New front windshield, new windshield gasket - but leaks in the corners as it wasn't installed properly. Prep could have been much better and has separated around trunk lip (can see when you open the trunk) and some bubbling where the bondo was applied).
Replaced the dash with a 1972 instrument panel that is in better condition than the original. (Am including the original.) Factory dash pad needs recovering. New ignition switch. Replaced turn signal switch but it is an OG part that sometimes doesn't cancel.
Prior owner recovered seats and door panels in a custom black cloth and alligator pattern. Custom Scamp molded headliner. Non-smoking car so smells ok. Carpet is ok but needs cleaning. We installed new 3 point seatbelt with inertia reels. New Kenwood car stereo with (2) kicker front dash speakers (custom speaker mount) and 6x9 rear speakers. Good sounding stereo.
I cleaned up the trunk, wire brushed and painted. I found 5 or 6 small holes in the trunk floor that I will point out in a YouTube video. Also, it appears that the passenger side trunk hinge mount at the wheel well has separated on the side - though the trunk still closes/opens properly. This will require a new hinge mount.
I want to emphasize that this is a project car - much better than when we bought it, but still needs time and money. I also want to note that I can guarantee this is a factory 318 car - but we don't have the option plate anymore (though we have the numbers). The paint guys lost it. I'm including numbers below.
No regrets please. Your deposit is nonrefundable whether or not you choose to buy the car. I expect you to buy it - but I just want to be upfront that I need to pay for the listing if you do not pay and that's the way I need to do it.
I have this car listed at what we paid for it. That's not including the thousands of dollars and many hours we have spent working on this car. You have a much better starting point than we did.
Last note. I have had people buy it now - then show up and try to talk me down in price. That's not the way it works. You pay what you bid - and if you use the Buy It Now - you pay what you agree to pay. I have to pay a sellers fee based on the sales price, and if you pay me less, then that's not fair.

We copied the following from the option plate before we lost it.

VH23: Plymouth Valiant,Duster,

High 2 Door Hardtop

G4G: 318 150HP(net) or 170HP(net) 1-2BBL 8 CYL

1974 St. Louis, MO, USA

268514:Sequence number

E44: 318 cid 2 barrel V8 230hp

D34: Light Duty Automatic Transmission

HL4: Parchment Exterior Color

E2Y3: Trim - Unknown, Vinyl Bench Seat, Gold

000: Full Door Panels

620: Build Date: June 20

561400:Order number

V1L: Full Vinyl Top, Champagne

U: USA Specifications

B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum

G52: Remote left hand chrome outside mirror

H51: Air Conditioning with Heater

J25: 3 Speed Wipers

L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals

M21: Roof drip rail moldings

M25: Wide sill moldings

M26: Wheel Lip Moldings

M38: Decklid Finish Panel Moldings

R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)

V5X: Body Side Stripes, Black

26: 26in Radiator

END: End of Sales Codes