1973 MGB Roadster project w/ bored-out motor, uprated pistons, and lots work don

Lets start with the basic things you probably want to know if you've chosen to read this post:

(For the picture hungry out there, please follow this link: (MGB Photos – More than you need!)

Q) What is this car?
A) 1973 MGB Roadster. Last of the metal-bumper variants. Wire wheels (knock-off). Dual SU carburetors. Sexy!
Q) What's the basic history of the car?
A) I bought this car in 2010 from a fellow out in Sammamish. He had had it for a few years sitting in his garage, untouched. It had a frozen rear wheel and didn't drive. He had bought it from a guy that had it in a barn for 12 years and after the barn was torn down, in a field for 4 years. So far as I can tell, I am the 3rd owner. Since then I have have taken it apart and been cleaning and putting it back together with new parts. It's had a lot of work done, and at this point it's next stage is going to paint, and then reassembly. It is currently a mix of the original (what I call) baby-poo brown/yellow, and a green aircraft primer that I used to seal it up properly while being worked on. My intent was to give the car vintage aircraft color scheme, with green primer in the unseen mechanical bay areas, a rich navy blue exterior, and an autumn leaf interior and top, with chrome accents. I also was big on the idea of battleship grey for the motor and many other bits, so you'll see a lot of that on the powder coated parts.
Q) Does it have a title? Is it a clean title?
A) Yes and yes!
Q) In what condition is the car?
A) In my opinion, excellent. Granted, it's not back together yet, but the body of this car is as strong as you can get. No rot or rust remains. It's had a lot of metal work done (there wasn't much needed, but the amount of work was greater than zero).
Currently it is a body with wheels, steering, and brakes. Engine, tranny, and drive shaft are out of the car. Interior is gutted (was rotten from age and mold / mildew). Fenders, hood, and trunk lid are removed and sand blasted to bare metal. This care is Ready to go to paint and be reassembled into a driver!
Q) Looks pretty good. Why the heck are you selling it?
A) I'm exchanging the hobbyist's life for the married life, which will hopefully turn to the family life. Sadly, the airbag-less car with drum brakes doesn't make the cut.
Q) What are some selling points?
A) Many. Here are some:
-- Autosport Seattle has done a great deal of work on the motor, including boring it out to 1955 CC and selling me custom pistons !!! They also did a great number on the cylinder head. Bottom half of the motor is reassembled properly. Did I mention I have a uprated, bored out, B series 18V motor??
-- Lots of parts, courtesy of an ever shrinking bank account and the good folks at Autosport Seattle, Victoria British, and Moss Motors.
-- Great metal work done by Elhot Metal Fab in South Lake Union.
-- Fenders, hood, and trunk lid are all sand blasted bare metal and have been stored in my dry basement.
-- Original gas tank completely restored and re-baffled by Seattle Radiator Works in SoDo
-- Original Oil cooler, radiator, and heater core also restored and tested by Seattle Radiator Works.
-- New brakes all around, new wheel bearings, hand brake cable, rebuilt steering rack
-- Lots of powder-coated parts, thanks to Seattle Powder Coat in Fremont.
Q) What are some things that I really need to know before I buy this.
A) Obvious answer is that you are buying a project. Do you research and know what you are getting into. Only thing I havent bought for it was a replacement interior. You'll need one of those. I have the original black seats still.
Q) $4,500 seems a lot of money for a project. Why this price.
A) I did an honest valuation of the car after looking at what fair market value of a fully restored car is, what a running but un-restored car goes for, what a non-running rust bucket goes for, what services have been paid for already, and, generally speaking, what I would be willing to buy this for if I was getting into it again from the start. I spent over 3,500 on the engine work, over 2,700 on the metal work, and god-knows how much on parts, pieces, and time rebuilding components that I have already installed. $4,500 is more than fair by my honest and rational valuation.
Q) Does it come with any goodies / extras?
A) You betcha:
-- engine stand
-- tow bar and mounting hardware + magnetic tow lights
-- Bentley manual
-- Receipts and lots of new parts (water pump, oil sump and strainer, bolts, washers, seals, new clutch and pressure plate, etc).