1984 Mercedes 380SL 380 SL convertible with hardtop

RELISTED DUE TO NONPAYING BIDDER
If you're looking for a 380sl, you probably know that the '84 and '85 model years are the ones to look for. Why? Because the Achilles heel of the '81-83 early models was the single row timing chain, which was prone to failure and subsequent catastrophic engine damage due to the interference engine design. They switched to a much more durable double row timing chain in 1984. Now that said, the double row timing chain on this car did break about 30k miles ago, but that's a good thing! The top end was essentially rebuilt, a new chain was put on, and it now runs like a dream. I have done A LOT of work on the car as follows:
-almost new tires (3000mi)-spark plugs-center driveline bearing and front/rear flex disks-drive shaft U-joint-4 shocks-engine mounts-front subframe bushings (entire front subframe was replaced by previous owner after it failed, a common issue for which a recall was issued)-instrument cluster bulbs-thermostat-transmission fluid change, with new seal (leak cured)-differential fluid change-new antenna motor and seal-O2 sensor-oil temp sensor-multiple water temp sensors-rebuilt warm-up regulator-shifter linkage-parking brake linkage-passenger side speaker-odometer gear (professionally rebuilt, odometer was offline for about 200 miles, but reset to the correct mileage +/- 20 miles based on gas tank level estimate)-HVAC blower motor-aux cooling fan temp switch, fan relay-side molding piece-fuel injectors-air flow meter boot-intake plenum donut gaskets-vacuum leak at charcoal canister-retrofit front wheel well liners (a feature on '86-89 models, protected against road spray getting into headlight housing, a rust prone area)-front wheel well splash guard seals-left rear differential seal to fix very slow leak
I was chasing a hesitation problem this past summer and the new fuel injectors fixed the problem beautifully. When I first got the car it took about a second of cranking to start up, now it starts instantly, hesitation was cured.
FLAWS:-the soft top does NOT leak but is probably due for replacement. I sealed a couple tears with some waterproof goop on top and tape from underneath. Functional but not particularly pretty.-I fixed a couple spots of rust in the passenger fender, but the paint match isn't perfect. One area above the headlight is about 1x3 inches, the other in front of the door about 6x1.5 inches. Good news is the rust is gone and won't come back with wheel well liners in place. Also I have a completely rust-free OEM replacement front fender ready to be put on and painted. This can be negotiated.-driver's seat has a ~4 inch tear. passenger seat is lovely. wood grain has a couple cracks but is very presentable.-CARFAX lists one accident several years ago, turned out to be a literal fender bender at 3 mph (visible as a shallow 3 inch dent in the rear bumper).-AC was functioning last summer fairly well, probably needs a recharge. Heat functions very well.
This is my daily driver, and I love it. It has never let me down, even at 6AM in 15 degree weather. It passed VA inspection with flying colors last July and will do so again. The hard top is in extremely good shape, without any tears in the headliner. People describe the ride as a magic carpet. I say imagine a brick with wheels, softly suspended. Now imagine driving that brick while sitting on a soft springy seat. Solid. There are no rattles, vibrations, engine leaks, or funny smells, and it tracks straight as an arrow. I think it drives like a new car. Honestly I don't particularly want to sell it, it's just that the father in me would feel a bit safer driving in something with an airbag. Email with questions.