1978 Lincoln Mark V..DIAMOND JUBILEE EDITION...GOLD..RARE CAR...21,975 miles

Well, here it is, the rarest of rare Lincoln cars, the jubilee edition in the beautiful gold color. I bought this car about 3 weeks ago from a 85 year old woman. It belong to her husband who passed away in 2008. According to her, he was the 2nd owner of the car. He bought it from a friend of his in 1989. The title has been transferred into her name after he passed but she has never driven the car. Periodically one of her sons or grandsons would drive the car just to keep it running. According to her, the car was last drive a little over 3 years ago. I've restored 14 automobiles in my time so I knew not to start it or drive without doing some preventive things to make sure it doesn't hurt the engine on a dry start. I had it towed to my house and begin working on it. Took me about 3 hours and the car fired right up. I still knew there would be some issues, so I'll tell you all I know about the car. If I miss something, just email me and I will do my best to answer your questions. The last thing you want or I want is for you to show up and be disappointed because of something you didn't know. I promise you this, if I know of something wrong, I will tell you, if I don't know, I'll do my best to check it for you. Since doing all the things I will tell you, I have driven the car several times and the longest was about a 30 mile round trip. Many short runs but not many miles from home at first. The car wasn't in a garage but was under a carport, so it did do some damage because of that but it did help tremendously in preserving it by being under shelter. I'll start with what I've done to the car that needed to be done or I just done because I wanted to. Oil & filter change..air filter...pvc air filter....fuel filter....Power steering gear box...New OEM distributor...Plugs..alternator belt...power steering belt. Most of these just need to be replaced when a car has sit as long as this one. UThe only leak this car had was the power steering gear box, that's why I replaced it, as of now, it has no fluid leaks. The other 2 belts on the car looked brand new and they were not dry rotted, high dollar belts there so I did not replace those 2. The only other thing I will do shortly is replace the alternator, it's squelling a little, especially with the lights on under a load so it's probably going bad. It will be replaced if that's in fact whats making the noise and I'm pretty sure it is. Here's the list of things I know work on the car. All ext. and int. lights except the driver door curtesy light. Head light covers work, takes about 2 days for them to leak down vacuum and raise, I didn't trace to find a leak, not sure if that's average or not. Power antenna, Radio and 8 track, cruise control, wipers, mirror adjusters, lumbar in seat, all funtions on seats work except one on passenger side, tilt I think. I found a spring under this seat, I think that's the return spring for that function. All windows work, Cigarette lighters work, Electric trunk opener, umbrella console, door buzzer, signal lights except interior left light does not come on, emergency brakes and dash light, alternator light, High low beam and indicator light, seat releases, heater and fan motor, speedometer, I'm sure I missed some things, if so just ask. Here's what I know isn't working, when I tested the door locks, I could hear the actuator working but would lock or unlock the doors. I removed the door panels and the rubber grommets that hold the actuator in place are dry rotted so the actuators were just hanging in the doors. I disconnected the wires to them so it didn't do anymore damage. They were trying but without the grommets, they couldn't lock or unlock. The cartier clock is not working, I didn't try to fix it. Ac is not working, the compressor clutch is free, I am assuming it's most likely low on Freon, I did not get into the ac at all. The light switch does work guys but it's not working properly. I have to keep turning the knob to find a place they will go off, easy to get them on but a little tricky to get them off. I could not test any of the other functions on that switch with it not working right and just to be honest, I don't know how it all works but I'm sure the switch needs to be fixed or replaced. I know these were common to cause problems, I did not even attempt to fix the switch. I didn't get a pic but the hand straps on the back of the front seats for the passengers, each side is missing 1 of the little covers at the end of the straps. I may have missed something, if I did, I'll come back and add it to the bottom of the description. Here's my unsure...heated mirrors, I don't even know how to turn them on but I didn't test them, Rear defrost, again, I don't know how to turn it on either but I don't see anything in the rear window to indicate that it wouldn't work. Here's some pluses to add, almost new tires on the car, original spare tire, owners manual, like new tool kit complete. There's one picture that shows the only damage to the outside I see, left rear fender well trim dented in 2 places, other than aa few minor chips in the paint, I don't see any more damage. Another pic shows the only damage inside I see, the drivers seat where you get in and out wore a place in the seat as you can see. Both sun visor lights work, garage opener light comes on when you push the button. Hood light is there, may need a bulb, I just didn't get around to it, trunk light works. Door lock lights work. Last pic shows all the keys I have to the car, sorry, no key ring. This car has the 460, optional 7.5 engine, plenty of power. Guys, the car runs good but it can run better, needs to be taken to that next level. I can feel a dry spot in the throttle when I depress it, if I was keeping the car, I'd pull that curb, replace or rebuild it, just something needed when a car sits this long and not driven. On the highway, it does do what I call shimmy....a left to right shimmy that keeps the car from being perfectly smooth, without a doubt, it's a tie rod end or stabilizer end or pitman arm. If it was mine, I'd replace them all, not very expensive and not hard to do. It does pull a little to the right, could be this tie rod end causing it or it just needs to be aligned. My experience, all the older cars pulled to the right so tension was always on the steering wheel and that's pulling away from the traffic if you let go of the steering wheel but after replacing tie rod ends, it will need to be aligned anyway. I did not try to do everything to this car, if I did, I'd have to ask more for it. It's at a great place to be taken to that next level and it's not far from being almost perfect as you can be on a 40 year old car. Transmission changes smooth, driveline has no problems that I'm aware of. Break pads are maybe half worn. I'm going to stop here, I'm sure I won't be able to list everything about the car. Guys, I bought the car to resell, I've got it to the level that it's running good, drives good and looks great. I knew I would need to find a stopping place to sell the car at a price for the next man to pick up where I left off. Ask questions, under no circumstances are you to send me this money via paypal, there is no point in paying those fees if your coming to pick the car up. If it's to be shipped, you arrange shipping, I'll make sure I'm here. Don't miss this chance to own one of these, they don't come around very often. Happy bidding and good luck. My reserve is not far from my opening bid, my minimum is what I can sell the car locally for, why bother with all this if I can't get more than what I can sell it for locally. A $500 deposit is required within 48 hours of auction ending unless you can get here before or close to that time. Almost forgot, fuel gauge works and miles to empty does work.
Note: The car is for sale locally, I do reserve the right to end this auction if sold. I will not end the auction if there is a bid on the car, so if you plan on bidding, bid early or I will end it if I get the offer I want locally.