1926 MODEL T FORD TOURING no reserve - inspected -

1926 Model T Ford Touring - Big pictures at end of the description These are great hobby cars supported by many members clubs and internet groups. Go to MTFCA. com and look at the forum section. If you like working on cars like I do. these are some of the easiest to work on and repair. All parts are available in 2 days at cheap prices from many suppliers. They were designed for a farmer to repair with a few simple tools. These are so much easier to work on than the 1940 and 50 cars I used to do. Inspected. See refund guarantee at the bottom of the description I have just too many cars to work on this summer and need to sell 3-4 cars now to free up storage Some of my other cars coming up will be a Model A Sedan. 2 nice Corvair convertibles. MGB convertible. VW bug You may be surprised by my description of all the defects. Buying a car unseen is risky. I have been selling classic cars for 40 years. I am a great believer in listing defects so the buyer is pleased with how much better the car is when they get it rather than say what the heck when they find defects. Purchase includes the black model T Ford maintenance manual which walks you through maintenance assembly and repair of this car and some period tools in the attached period tool box . If nearby I can assist in repairs The good part is the car is complete with a very decent pliable top and a decent amateur vinyl interior Wiring and coils spark plugs tested good spark Number 55 key Has spot light rear tire spare tire carrier and kerosene front side light mounted tool box all which add value I have 9 cars to work on this summer so I need some room as I can not get to them all. Here is what needs to be done to this car. I have gone through it and noted all the errors I have found. There may be more but I try to find errors Get your own valid XHTML YouTube embed code It is a 1926 listed and has a metal body but the engine pedals on the transmission are pre-1926 The motor turns over freely. I got it stated briefly by putting gas drops in the cylinder after increasing compression with the addition of oil to the cylinders. HOWEVER the compression is too low. It will need a ring and valve job. Both very easy to do. You pull the flat head. valves are at the side. Piston rod caps are accessed by removing a pan on the bottom of the engine. Hone the cylinders gap the new rings properly. Test cylinder diameter and condition Compression test was 20 dry and above 30 when oil added to the cylinders Top compression should be 50 and above for a good engine. I can loan you the valve grinder and the ring compressor for this job Starter is weak. and intermittent. Needs at a minimum cleaned and new brushes Lights are intact. They will need new connectors for the bulb and wiring. Has the harder to find light bar Appears to be a newer wiring harness with the light portion of the wiring harness never attached Horn was not tested Needs new radiator cap if desired as a mount hole drilled in the top will work as is Transmission cover pulled. Drums look smooth no cracks observedDoes has the nickle radiator which was an option Wiring cables from the battery to the starter need replaced with 1/0 cables vs current 12 volt 6 gauge cable these cables are way too small to carry the proper 6 volt current to the starter Will need a good 6 volt battery New battery ground strap needed All electrical grounding contacts need to be bare metal cleaned up from battery to the starter Steering box on steering wheel has 1 inch play. Needs cover pulled and either greased or new gears put in 2 tires need pulled from the wheel and the tube rotated back so the valve stem is vertical (if tire pressure gets too low. the tube can slip inside the tire) rear brakes are with the car but they need installed and new brake rods and pins installed (rods missing) The body is NOT pristine. It has metal patches on the bottom rear deck and other small areas see pictures It appears body is rusted removed and put back on with new bolts and fasteners There is paint over erosion on the cowl so it appears rust was removed. metal not properly primed and painted over blue (amateur) I would prime. sand. prime smooth then repaint to cover minute erosion making some of the blue paint look pitted Underside of car shows some rust. erosion on some under body panels such as the splash shield along the running boards and the sheet metal over the differential Left front wheel appears to need a new kingpin bushing (too much play_ ) Fenders have some cracks and damage good for driving but not for show This is a non generator car that runs on battery. magneto not tested You can add the fun projects battery charger that charges the battery from the magneto flywheel post You may need to recharge magneto magnets in the car There may be a crack under some old clear tape in the bottom drivers windshield. Hard to see. I would recommend checking if the glass on the windshield is safety glass and if not. replace it So in summary You are getting an intact car with the work mentioned above should be a good runner and parade car fun to run around with the grand kids but will need about $ 500 in parts and about 50-80 hours of work I can store the car free insured for 30 days after purchase You are FREE to inspect the car during the 20 days after purchase at my home. Feel free to have any other Model T ford expert inspect it before or after purchase at my home. If it differs from the description full refund prior to shipping Feel free to watch some of my Model T Ford videos on YouTube on starting and driving the Model T's Also feel free to call and talk Model T's as a potential hobby These cars are advertised locally and I reserve the right to sell them locally. If you are interested but not sure you want the car give me a call send an email and I will send you my phone number On Apr-21-15 at 12:21:59 PDT. seller added the following information:I have purchased a new 6 volt battery that fits the battery carrier for the car and will of course come with the car saving you about $ 90 for a new battery