1967 FORD MUSTANG FASTBACK ELEANOR IRS COILOVERS FULL SUSPENSION. DELRIN BUSHING
1967 Ford Mustang
Technical specifications of Ford Mustang 1967 | |
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Price: | US $24,850.00 |
Condition: | Used |
Item location: | Glendale, California, United States |
Make: | Ford |
Model: | Mustang |
Type: | Fastback |
Year: | 1967 |
Mileage: | 1 |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Manual |
Drive type: | RWD |
Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
Vehicle Title: | Clean |
You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Car description |
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Please, read the entire add before you contact me. Thank you
For sale is a 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback rolling chassis that was being built to be an Eleanor clone. The car has significant work done to it. The entire body was strengthened to accept a high horsepower/torque motor. Normally these uni body chassis twist when you put more than 400 ft. lbs. torque to them. This one is made to take a lot more than that.
By the way, what you see in the pictures is what you get. Don't have glass, interior, hood, decklid, etc... Either way you don't want to install a 50 year old interior that's cracking and stinks into a beautiful custom that this car will be anyway. Most glass that old starts getting foggy or has stains as well.
CHASSIS
We started with a completely clean, original 1967 fastback. It’s not a coupe conversion or an aftermarket body. The car had no rust whatsoever. We turned the unibody into a full frame car by connecting the front and rear frame rails together, but we didn’t stop there. We ran square tube reinforcements through the rockers, radiator support, aprons, forward struts and rear valance. All 4 torque boxes were strengthened to handle a lot more power.
The 1st gen mustang stock front cross member (K-member) is a flimsy unit, so that was replaced with a custom made cross braced cross member. The shock towers were also narrowed and strengthened, so now it can accept any motor from coyote to 32valve Cobra, older 428ci or anything in between. You don’t have to cut out the shock towers anymore to run a mustang II suspension, which doesn’t have enough shock travel. After all it’s 70’ technology.
SUSPENSION
Front suspension is MacPherson style struts Maximum Performance coil overs tubular A-arms, and Delrin bushings. It has rack and pinion steering.
Rear suspension is a complete independent suspension out of a 2003 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra with 4.10 gears. 31 spline axles. It has brand new Maximum Motorsports coil overs, sway bar, and the complete Delrin bushing kit already installed. Never driven on. No leaks from the differential. The chassis is made to accept the 03’ Cobra IRS or a 4-link
BODY
The body is laser straight. Again, it has absolutely NO rust anywhere. Entire floor along with trunk and roof is covered in dynamat, not any cheap sound insulation.
The bottom of the car was covered in undercoating, but I know that people like to hide rust and damages with undercoating, so I just had the bottom of the car completely sand blasted to bare metal, so the buyer can see the amount of work done to the car and be sure that there’s nothing bad hiding under the undercoating.
There was a lot of money invested into this car. If you wanted to replicate all the work that I have done, it would cost around $60,000 to get a 67’ body and built it to this point.
With these cars, the vin number comes on the driver's side door and left side apron. Don't have the door and the apron has been modified. In order to get a title and register the car, all you have to do is buy a drivers side door or a vin number from a junkyard. Now you can get it registered. There are a lot of cars rusting away in fields in the midwest. I am sure the owners will gladly sell you a vin. If I had it, I'd be asking more for the car.
I know it seems like a big project to take on, but in reality it's not. You are going to do the same work to this car as you are going to do to any mustang that you are going to restore, accept you are not going to do suspension work on this one. That will by far offset the cost of buying doors hood and trunk. And even if you buy the high end $20,000 suspension, it's still useless, because you are still you is going to bolt it onto a 53 year old chassis that's already very flimsy.I am not desperate to sell, so please don’t waste mine and your time with ridiculous offers. Only serious inquiries, please.
Contact Steve (818) nine23-4O4O
Also, available SEPERATELY is a custom built 1,200HP twin turbo motor that was built for this car specifically. We started with a 351 Windsor DART block, stroked it to a 440, Scatt crank, Mahle H-beam rods, JE racing pistons, AFR head. 2 x 67mm turbonetics turbos along with all the plumbing. Custom built twin intercooler, and custom headers. Aluminum custom intake from Hogan racing (paid $5,000). The biggest aluminum radiator available from “Be Cool,” with twin electric fans. Pics available upon request. It’s all brand new. Never been fired up. I have spent over $60,000 on this motor and if you buy the car I will be willing to sell it for an extra $25,000
For sale is a 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback rolling chassis that was being built to be an Eleanor clone. The car has significant work done to it. The entire body was strengthened to accept a high horsepower/torque motor. Normally these uni body chassis twist when you put more than 400 ft. lbs. torque to them. This one is made to take a lot more than that.
By the way, what you see in the pictures is what you get. Don't have glass, interior, hood, decklid, etc... Either way you don't want to install a 50 year old interior that's cracking and stinks into a beautiful custom that this car will be anyway. Most glass that old starts getting foggy or has stains as well.
CHASSIS
We started with a completely clean, original 1967 fastback. It’s not a coupe conversion or an aftermarket body. The car had no rust whatsoever. We turned the unibody into a full frame car by connecting the front and rear frame rails together, but we didn’t stop there. We ran square tube reinforcements through the rockers, radiator support, aprons, forward struts and rear valance. All 4 torque boxes were strengthened to handle a lot more power.
The 1st gen mustang stock front cross member (K-member) is a flimsy unit, so that was replaced with a custom made cross braced cross member. The shock towers were also narrowed and strengthened, so now it can accept any motor from coyote to 32valve Cobra, older 428ci or anything in between. You don’t have to cut out the shock towers anymore to run a mustang II suspension, which doesn’t have enough shock travel. After all it’s 70’ technology.
SUSPENSION
Front suspension is MacPherson style struts Maximum Performance coil overs tubular A-arms, and Delrin bushings. It has rack and pinion steering.
Rear suspension is a complete independent suspension out of a 2003 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra with 4.10 gears. 31 spline axles. It has brand new Maximum Motorsports coil overs, sway bar, and the complete Delrin bushing kit already installed. Never driven on. No leaks from the differential. The chassis is made to accept the 03’ Cobra IRS or a 4-link
BODY
The body is laser straight. Again, it has absolutely NO rust anywhere. Entire floor along with trunk and roof is covered in dynamat, not any cheap sound insulation.
The bottom of the car was covered in undercoating, but I know that people like to hide rust and damages with undercoating, so I just had the bottom of the car completely sand blasted to bare metal, so the buyer can see the amount of work done to the car and be sure that there’s nothing bad hiding under the undercoating.
There was a lot of money invested into this car. If you wanted to replicate all the work that I have done, it would cost around $60,000 to get a 67’ body and built it to this point.
With these cars, the vin number comes on the driver's side door and left side apron. Don't have the door and the apron has been modified. In order to get a title and register the car, all you have to do is buy a drivers side door or a vin number from a junkyard. Now you can get it registered. There are a lot of cars rusting away in fields in the midwest. I am sure the owners will gladly sell you a vin. If I had it, I'd be asking more for the car.
I know it seems like a big project to take on, but in reality it's not. You are going to do the same work to this car as you are going to do to any mustang that you are going to restore, accept you are not going to do suspension work on this one. That will by far offset the cost of buying doors hood and trunk. And even if you buy the high end $20,000 suspension, it's still useless, because you are still you is going to bolt it onto a 53 year old chassis that's already very flimsy.I am not desperate to sell, so please don’t waste mine and your time with ridiculous offers. Only serious inquiries, please.
Contact Steve (818) nine23-4O4O
Also, available SEPERATELY is a custom built 1,200HP twin turbo motor that was built for this car specifically. We started with a 351 Windsor DART block, stroked it to a 440, Scatt crank, Mahle H-beam rods, JE racing pistons, AFR head. 2 x 67mm turbonetics turbos along with all the plumbing. Custom built twin intercooler, and custom headers. Aluminum custom intake from Hogan racing (paid $5,000). The biggest aluminum radiator available from “Be Cool,” with twin electric fans. Pics available upon request. It’s all brand new. Never been fired up. I have spent over $60,000 on this motor and if you buy the car I will be willing to sell it for an extra $25,000
- do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers