RARE 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT -NOT A CLONE - Driveable Barn Find!

This is your chance to own a true and rare 1966 Ford Mustang GT. THIS IS NOT A CLONE. This GT is a barn find and has been partially restored/detailed. It was my intention to make the car drive-able and car show worthy (as it will turn a lot of heads) until I gathered enough money to do a complete restoration. Selling this car is going to be a huge regret that I will always have, but it needs to go to a true enthusiast that will restore it to its former glory, or someone who wants to enjoy the "Barn Find" look and restore later down the road. For anyone that knows the mustang history, this REAL GT (Not a Clone) is a true steal at the commanding prices being seen on the TV auctions. And for anyone that has restored or worked on a classic Mustang, all the hard work that everyone hates to do has just about been done with countless hours of work and THOUSANDS of dollars in new parts! As detailed below, the majority of the original parts come with the car, and some new parts (not installed as well).
I will ship anywhere in the country and overseas at the buyers expense. Buyer must arrange and manage all shipping efforts.
Here is a YouTube video walk around while the car is running: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sX0weP0PtA8
Below are the details on the car:
- The car was last registered in the state of Virginia (Arlington) in 1986, and is believed to have been off the road since 1987. It currently has 61,552 miles on the odometer; of which I believe is the original mileage of the car. It was in a garage for some time before I bought it from the second owner; where it sat in a barn for well over 25 years. The only thing that appears to have been changed on the car since new was the paint. The second owner of the car told me that the original owner wasn't fond of silver, so they painted the car red back in the early 80s. The original Silver Frost paint is still visible on multiple areas of the car. When pulled from the barn, all original parts were on the car and for the most part will come with the sale of the car.
- The car was manufactured in Dearborn Michigan and is an "A" code coupe ( 225hp, 289 W/ 4 barrel carburetor). The exterior color is supposed to be silver frost and the interior is red with red trim. The car went to the Richmond sales district to be sold; came with a 3.00:1 rear axle ratio, and had the C-4 Automatic option.
- It has the GT package equipment: GT exterior decor (GT emblem/no quarter trim/ mustang on the fender), Dual exhaust, Disc Brakes, Fog Lights, Power Steering with Quick Ratio steering box, HD springs, 13/16" sway bar, brake proportioning valve. The car has everything to make certain it is a true GT mustang. The only piece missing to confirm that it is a GT is the original bill of sale, however, I believe as shown in the picture below, the "GT" written on the radiator core support from the factory is the smoking gun.......- The car is well optioned but is not a pony interior car (which is even rarer for a GT). The car has its original "seat belt" light (that works), came with headrests (missing from the car), came with retractable seat belts (still in the car), has the night time rear view mirror, adjustable side mirrors, correct AM stereo with front and rear adjust-ability (the adjust setup appears to be a period correct dealer option).
- Now to complicate the matter of the car, I am about 98% certain that this car is what is considered a "dual stamped" car; which means that the car has two VIN numbers. There are several documented instances of classic mustangs with this duplication of VIN as an error from the manufacturer. There are two numbers stamped on the drive side inner finder. One the VINs is hard to read and appears to match the door tag of 6F07A730874, the second VIN reads 6F07A733087. The second and clearly legible VIN matches the hidden VIN on the passenger side inner fender stamping. Not knowing a ton about dual stamped mustangs, I paid a VIN/Title company to research the VIN and to see if there was any known existence of the car. From what they told me, the second VIN had never been recorded in any database in the U.S. I went on to pay this company to obtain a title for that second VIN. So the car has two titles for both VIN numbers and both titles come with the sale of the car.
I believe that the original owner or the second owner of the car realized there were two VINs and tried to be remove the one VIN that is now barely legible, hence the reason why its barely legible. My second thought was that maybe sometime in the car's life, it was in an accident and someone replaced the drivers side door with a door off a donor car. But then when I started to dig deeper, the probability of finding the identically colored and optioned donor door from a car that was a rare "A" code, with the same options as found on the car, and manufactured within 2,200 cars of one another would be a one in the million chance. Furthermore, the car appears to have all of its original sheet metal. Several pieces that are visibly stamped from the manufacturing process have the date of July 30th stamped on them which would match the date code on the door tag. This would mean the donor and this car would have been on the manufacturing line at the same time. The likelihood of someone using a parts off another similarly rare mustang would be near impossible. Lastly, if you see the picture below, there are two factory errors on the metal near the VIN, for instance the upside down "V" after the last "*" and then "additional "*" three inches to the right of the VIN.
The Double Stamp
The hidden VIN
The Door Tag
Additional Details:
Engine:The original engine comes with the sale of the car only if reserve is met, otherwise, the 289 currently in the car is what you get. The original engine was locked up and I just didn't have the chance to take it to a machine shop to get it rebuilt. However, the original timing chain cover, 4V intake, exhaust manifolds, and just about every part (minus water pump and alternator) was taken off the old engine, cleaned/rebuilt/repainted, and placed back on the engine currently in the car. The engine currently in the car was pulled from another 1966 mustang that a friend was doing a restoration on. He wanted to put a jasper engine in his restoration that had a little bit more power, so I used his engine which was in perfect working order. The engine had been rebuilt prior, but is a 289 engine from 1966. I cleaned the engine, put all new gaskets on and then placed all the parts form the original engine onto the donor. I also installed a Pertronix ignition to eliminate the never ending points issue. The radiator is a new 3 core radiator and the car runs nice and cool. The engine starts on the first try, doesn't leak any oil or coolant, and does not smoke one bit.
The carburetor currently on the engine is not original to the car. It is however a period correct ford Thunderbird carburetor with the 1.12 venturi/ 600CFM vs. the 1.08 480 CFM. It is essentially the same carburetor found on a K-code mustang (HiPo). The carburetor has been tuned for the car and runs very strong. The sale of the car will come with the original 4v carburetor that was stripped down to be rebuilt.
highlights- New gaskets on the engine/and exhaust manifolds- New coolant hoses- New 3 core radiator (and new cap)- New water pump- New spark Plugs and Wires- Pertronix FlameThrower ignition- New engine wiring harness- New alternator wiring harness- New Starter- New fuel filter and fuel line (Rubber line and Hard line to the gas tank)- New Motor Mounts- New GT Stock style Exhaust and supporting hardware- New GT trumpets (Not installed on the car, but come with the sale)
Transmission:The Transmission and Torque Converter are original to the car. The transmission was partially cleaned, all fluids drained, new filter added, new rear seal added, and a new pan gasket was put on. The Torque Convert was drained as well. All new Ford Type F was put back in. The internal transmission parts were actually pretty clean, so I believe the car truly has 61K miles on it. When the car was pulled from the barn, there were some NOS transmission parts in a box that included a shift kit and the vacuum modulator that will come with the car as well.
Highlights- New Trans Pan Gasket- New Rear shaft Seal- New Type F fluid- New Transmission lines to the radiator- New Shifter Bushing kit installed- New Transmission mount
Suspension/Steering:Just about ever piece of the suspension/steering has been replaced (or rebuilt) except for the sway bar, the upper control arms, and the original coil springs. Knowing that you cannot find replacements for the GT coil springs, I left the original ones on the car as there was nothing wrong with them. In addition, one of the ball joints on the driver side was replaced with an NOS ball joint.
Highlights - Original Close Ratio Steering box was cleaned but not removed from the car (Steering Tag: HCC AW 6G26B)- Original Power Steering pump- Cleaned, complete pump rebuilt, repainted, and is in perfect working order.- Rebuilt slave cylinder- Original 13/16" sway bar- New sway bar bushings and new sway bar end link bushings- New Tie Rods- New Power Steering Lines/Hoses (all are brand new)- New lower control arms- New Shocks (Front and Rear)- New Rear Leaf springs and supporting hardware
Brakes:Just about ever piece of the brake system has been replaced (or rebuilt). The Original Calipers come with the car and I believe they might be able to be rebuilt. The calipers have the original Kelsey Hayes boots on them too. The only thing that was not touched was the proportioning valve which was in perfect working order; of which is set to the factory settings.
Highlights- New Disc Brake Calipers- New Disc pads and rotors- New Front and Rear bearings installed- New Brake Lines (All lines Front/Back)- New Master Cylinder- Rear Drums were completely rebuilt (Shoes and Springs etc) to include original drums (still have "Ford" stamped on them) that were resurfaced.- New Parking Brake Cables
Interior:Not much of the interior was touched. When the car was pulled from the barn, it appeared that someone was starting to remove the interior, but left everything nicely stacked inside of the car. The Carpet and Headliner was the only pieces missing.
Highlights- New Dash Pad- New Carpet- New Underlayment- Original seats were cleaned and placed back in the car- Original/expensive/hard to find retractable seat belts were cleaned up.- New Headlight switch (original was bad)- Rebuilt heater box with new plenum, and defrost hoses.- New Glove box and supporting hardware (Not installed but comes with the sale)
- New/working interior lights- Original seat belt light- not touched and still works- Original instrument cluster- not touched and fully operational
Body/Metal work:All metal on the car is original to the car. The car does have all the normal rust that is to be expected for a car coming from the Northeast part of the US. I will state that the car is actually not as rotted as most cars and should be easy for a body shop to tackle.
- There are 2 small rust holes in the floor smaller than the size of a penny. the holes are under the driver side rear seat floor pan. Other than that, the floors are in really good shape and only had surface rust. The complete underside of the car stripped to bare metal and painted with rust preventer/encapsulator paint.
- The quarter panels are rusty, and will probably need to be completely replaced, or if you have a good body man, they could probably be salvaged.
- The Frame Rails - They are in really good shape. There is a slight rust bubble (not rusted through/ cant poke through it with a screw driver) about the size of a half dollar on the inner drive-side frame rail.
- The trunk is in really good shape, but does have rust around the top lip of the trunk compartment itself.
- It does appear at one point in time, the car might have been lightly kissed in the rear. The rear trunk brace is a little beat up. In addition, it appears that the car might have run over something and there is slight damage to the passenger side floor board/inner wheel well. The car has been checked for squareness and is straight as an arrow.
- Cowl. Like any classic mustang out there, the cowls are always an issue. The passenger side cowl is fairly solid, but the driver side cowl will need to be repaired at some point.
Electrical:Except for the fog lights and the radio, everything thing else pertaining to the electrical system works. Head lights, brake lights, turn signals, horn, gauges, gauge lights, seat belt lights, heater blower motor, etc.... they all work. the wiring under the dash is in excellent shape and still has the "ford" paper tags wrapped around the wire looms.
Highlights- New Engine wiring harness- New Alternator wiring harness
Below are some pictures (Before and After). I have over 300+ pictures of the car from when pulled out of the garage to where it stands now. This is a true barn find, and a true GT. Not a Clone.
BEFORE
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AFTER