1966 Mustang GT Fastback, A-Code 289, 4-Speed, Factory A/C

66 Mustang GT Fastback – The car is a factory GT fastback. The following is a list of original equipment/options that the car came with: A-Code 289 225 horsepower 10:1 compression 4-barrel engine; 4-speed transmission; 4-piston front disc brakes; handline package with big sway bar; 8-inch rear end with 3.00:1 gear ratio, dual exhaust with GT trumpets; nightmist blue exterior; blue standard interior with fold down rear seat and air conditioning. Oddly, the car did not come with power steering. This is a pretty complete car that I have owned for 14-years and I know it sat for at least 10 years before that. At some point someone painted it silver with blue GT stripes. I have had plans of restoring the car to it’s original condition, except keeping the silver paint. Either way, the car would be a great car. However, after many years I have just never gotten to it and have decided that I need to sell the car to someone who will finish the car up.

It’s a great starting point for someone to begin with. The body and structure overall is solid. It is not rust-free, but is absolutely not a rust bucket. So instead of telling you all the amazing parts of the car and forgetting to describe the bad parts, I’ll go the body issues in detail. There is rust in the front floor board and probably the bottom 2-inches of the toe board. There are older patch panels in the back floor board that are in good shape. The cowl has rust in the lower panel. I can’t see where it’s through, but it has leaked and I’m sure that is what caused the rust in the front of the floor. There is a small area on the driver side of the rear window probably 3-inches long along the flange where the rear window sits down in the body. I have not had the rear window out of the car, so I can’t verify that is the only spot, but it appears to be. Both rear quarters have small rust areas right behind the rear wheel wells. This is common as dirt accumulated there from the rear tires and people don’t clean that area out when they washed the car. I would estimate probably a 2x2 inch area on each side. There was also some damage to the very bottom of the passenger quarter. In the pictures you can see the brown primer on the passenger bottom of the rear quarter. The passenger door has a small area on the front bottom corner of the door. The battery box area has a patch already in place, and is mostly covered by the battery tray. The bottom front cross support below the radiator core support is dented. The core support itself is pretty straight. The bottom of the trunk floor drop-off on the driver side has a 2-inch x 2-inch hole at the back where the quarter meets the rear valence. The driver door and front fender have been replaced, and both are in good shape. The door tag is missing, but I have ordered a new one. I have listed every inch of rust I know of on the car.

I love to drive cars, and I’m not a concours guy. So I had planned on just fiberglassing the front floor to avoid an expensive repair right now. At some point in the future I’d circle around and address the floor. I’ve done fiberglass work on the floor board of another mustang and so far its lasted 24-years. I did the battery box on another car that I owned from 1979 to 2001. The current owner said it was solid as a rock. I was going to weld in small patch panels in both quarters, fix the area in the bottom of the rear window, and the passenger door corner, paint it and have fun with it. The body is really pretty straight and no need to replace the good factory sheet metal. However, for the restoration guys/gals, I’d priced a full floor replacement with repairs to the toe boards at $1,800 and an inner (bottom) and outer (top) cowl at $1,200. The rest of the car is really pretty solid. The front and rear frame rails are good, the trunk floor and area over the rear axle are good, firewall is good and the rockers are good. The rear support below the taillight panel looks good too.

The interior is obviously a complete replacement and repaint. It came with a blue standard interior, and I have some front seat covers for it, although I think the existing front and rear seats are probably useable as they are. I am missing the far back carpeted panel for the fold down rear seat. I have all the trim for the rear fold down area. I have the GT exhaust trumpets that go through the rear valence, but the rest of the exhaust system will need to be replaced. A little trick on the trumpets, the steel pipe part that welds to the stainless tips can be replaced with new pipe by a muffler shop. I have the rear GT valence, the front valence, the GT grill and fog lights. The original hood was gone when I got the car, so I had a Shelby hood (complete fiberglass reproduction) that is in okay/good shape, but is a little flat at the rear and doesn’t completely line up with the body.

The motor and trans that come with the car are not the originals. The block is a late 66 block. The heads and I suspect intake are January 68 casting 289 heads (early 68 as Ford switched to a 302 early in the 68 production year. I have a set of 66 casting date heads I can swap in with the deal and keep the 68 heads/intake if you want (I do not have a 66 cast iron 4-bbl intake. The transmission is a borg warner T-10 that is correct for a Mustang. I am not sure if I have the drive shaft for the car. The rear end is an 8-inch 3.00:1 ratio rear end. The original4-piston Kelsey hays disc brakes are on the car. There are no rear drums on the car. The old ones were dragging and were removed years ago.The original axles and everything is in place. The motor and trans are bolted in but not connected and ready to fire up.

The wheels that are on the car are 67 style steel wheels. There are five of them, four of which have tires. I have a set of four 66 style steel wheels that can be swapped in with the car. I’ll keep the others ones. The tires are just tires to hold the car up, and shouldn’t be driven on.

In my opinion, the car needs the tranny gone through, the brakes rebuilt and possibly the motor rebuilt (although it looked really clean inside when I popped one of the valve covers off). I haven’t inspected the wiring, butit appears to be original and intact. That being said, I’ve never put a battery in the car and tested anything. The car is mostly all there, and is a correct GT. It has the rear frame exhaust bolt holes, the dual exhaust reinforcing plates in the rear floorboard, the HCC-AX GT non-power steering box, the fog light switch hole in the driver dash, the holes in the core support for the wires to the lights, the bigger GT master cylinder and proportioning valve and A-Code motor designation in the VIN. If I had the space and money, I’d keep it and bring it back to life myself. It’s gonna make a really cool car for someone.

The buyer is responsible for all transportation arrangements and costs. There is no warranty and the car is for sale as is. This is a cash sale only. No cashiers checks, personal checksor money orders. I will need to get a $500.00 cash deposit with 3 days and full payment and pickup of the car within 7 days.

I have tried to be as thorough as possible in my description of this car. However, there are always questions that the pictures or explanation do not reveal. So please ask questions. I am located on the north side of Houston, Texas. Thanks for the time. Good luck finding the rightcar! Many Blessings!