1970 Ford Mustang Coup

The Build and current condition:

1) The car was completely disassembled and placed on a rotating stand for the repairs and modification.

2) The car was removed from the stand and fully assembled to test the fit.

3) The car was then placed back on the stand for final finishing and painting of the underside.

4) After the underside was painted it was removed from the stand and final assembly started.

As of right now the engine, drive train, exhaust, and suspension are installed. The car will roll on its wheels. It can be rolled onto a trailer or roll back for transporting.


Engine:302 cubic inch, .030 over, SVO aluminum heads from Ford Racing, Harland and Sharp rockers, 1-5/8” equal length headers, Holley 750 dbl., 3” exhaust, Griffith aluminum radiator mounts in a slant position, ready for air conditioning if you want, new chrome air conditioning compressor included. trunk mounted battery tray. Parts and mounting hardware for serpentine belt setup or V belt setup.

Transmission and Rear: Doug Nash / Richmond Gear 5 speed racing transmission, (5th gear is 1to1, not overdrive), 9” ford 28 spline posi rear end with 3.24 gear ratio, could use a 3.05 for more top end speed but it is unreal in first gear with the 3.24 rear.

Fuel System: 24 Gallon fuel cell, steel fuel cell holder, duel Competition Products fuel pumps and filters mounted in the trunk. Holly 750 double pumper.

Front and Rear Suspension: Front - Custom built front end, Global west upper A arms, Coil over racing shocks, sprint car style sway bar, hand made lower A arms with spherical bearings. Stock lower A arms will fit if desired. See pictures. Rear – Global West Rear leaf springs with half anti twist traction leaf built in. Global West Delrin/aluminum bushings. Welded in sub frame connectors.

Frame and Body:

Steel belly pans welded in to the underside. New frame parts. Custom built square tube front end, custom built full roll cage, new torque boxes on left and right side, new floor pans on left and right side, welded in sub frame connectors, custom sheet metal belly pans, custom made seat mounts, custom rear wheel wells, new door skins, new door hing bushings. The tilt front end was fabricated from stock parts cut and welded together. Everything has been test fitted.

Rain channel have been removed around the door and extensions welded in place. The cars roof looks lowered because of this but it is not. All rust was removed during the restoration and all new metal was installed were needed. All interior sheet metal was treated with Zintex and then painted with a Zink based metal etching primer. Underside and engine compartment are painted with a clear coat base coat. Exhaust hanger brackets were welded to the frame during the modification so no through holes in the body for exhaust mounting. All other holes in the under body have been welded, welded shut.

Know items that you will need to complete or fabricate:

Interior – 95% of the front half of the interior will work but you will need to notch the NEW front dash (included) board around the roll bar. (I was going to cut it out) The rear seat area will need to be fabricated. My idea was to fill it with stereo speakers and have just the 2 front seats. The (new) headliner should still fit with no modification and is include. Electronic door lock kit is included but needs to be installed.

Notice the car has no door handles on the exterior. As the doors unlock they will pop open a little, grab the edge to open the door. Trunk lid – Again modified with no exterior locks the trunk is raised and lowered with a electric motor. You will need to complete the latch fabrication.

Front end – Hydraulic front end is complete except for a solenoid or cable run to the latch system and interconnected to the tilt switch. The front end uses 1970 convertible hydraulics and pump to operate the tilt front end. I have 2 sets of hydraulics, one set is new in box. I used an old set for testing. 95% of the plumbing is hard lines. The hard lines are all fabricated and have been test fitted, ready to mount. You will need 4 short (a few inches long) flex lines to connect to the hard lines to the hydraulic cylinders. The front end has been tested and works great! I am very proud of the design. The entire front end removes from the frame with only 2 pins for easy front end access.

Everything else – You can take the rest of the build as far as you want. I had planned on Bear Claw disk brakes all around but I have the stock front disk, rear drum brakes if that is what you want. Wheels and tires, paint and some work.

The engine,trans,rear combo was absolutely fantastic when it was removed from the road to do the modifications. The only change I have made was the upgraded exhaust. I had smaller headers and exhaust before. These new headers and the 3” pipe should allow the SVO heads to really breath!

All parts plus extra's are included, interior, glass, original dash, OEM air conditioning dash and vents, seats, extra parts of all kinds. Everything is packed into the car and ready to ship.

CAR IS BEING SOLD AS IS

VIN tag and TITLE:
Factory VIN tag never removed during restoration, pictures taken of the VIN tag.
Title is clean, clear and ready. Parts include: The entire car as shown, wheels, tires, motor, trans, all the parts for the car on the wall behind it, dash, dash panels (2) one with and one without factory air, steering, glass, seats, new headliner, grill, head light parts, front end, tilt part, steering column and wheel, front disk brakes, rear drum brakes, new AC dryer, new AC condenser, new chrome AC compressor, 2 wire harness, one with factory AC, nuts, bolts, plumbing, extra braided hose and AN fitting, all interior parts, every part I own for it. The car was running when I disassembled it so you will have everything needed PLUS extra's.
Car has stock 1970 power steering and it was plumbed with nylon steel braided hose so it would not blow under high RPM. A lot of parts are packed inside the car for transport and can't be seen. Everything part I own for the car is included.