1972 Datsun 240z rat rod build with full mechanical restoration
1972 Datsun Z-Series
Technical specifications of Datsun Z-Series 1972 | |
|---|---|
| Price: | US $11,999.00 |
| Condition: | Used |
| Item location: | Pearland, Texas, United States |
| Make: | Datsun |
| Model: | Z-Series |
| Type: | Coupe |
| Year: | 1972 |
| Mileage: | 99,000 |
| VIN: | HLS30095904 |
| Engine size: | L28 w/ E88 head |
| Number of cylinders: | 6 |
| Fuel: | Gasoline |
| Transmission: | Manual |
| Drive type: | RWD |
| Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
| Vehicle Title: | Clear |
| You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Car description |
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1972 Datsun 240z rat rod with full mechanical restoration. This has been my project for the last few months, every single inch of this car has been gone through, everything has been cleaned/fixed/repaired/replaced other than the body/sheet metal as I like the the look of the patina. This car is registered, inspected and driven daily around town, it has a clean TX title in my name. Everything works, I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere, runs awesome. Buy it and drive it as is if you like the rat rod look or do the body/sheet metal work to personalize it to your taste and have a fully restored Z without having to do all the mechanical stuff.
As far as rust goes, car is very solid for a driver but obviously we have some rust, this is a rat rod, not a concourse restoration. There is surface rust and some small holes on the body, quarters have some rust though around bottom (easy to cut off and cover with flares if you want). Body is clear coated over the patina, The worst rust spots are on upper tail light panel inside the hatch (pictured), still solid enough to hold everything together but will need to be patched or replaced if your restoring the body. Drivers floor pan has an old patch from the 80's, passenger had some rust around the factory drain holes but was still very solid so I just fiberglass mat patched over everything and put inhibitor on the rest of the rust. Common rust areas like the battery tray and spare tire well are solid.
As far as the mechanical restoration/build goes, all aftermarket parts are brand new with less than 500 miles on them:
-Fresh rebuilt L28 (2.8 liter from a 280z) with dished pistons. Early E88 head and oversized stainless valves. Runs awesome, 210psi compression all the way across.
-Brand new (not rebuilt) dual hif44 SU Carbs, new technology carbs with integrated float chambers, do not require any choke to start and handle modern ethanol mix gas very well. Fully synced and tuned.
-K&N dual intakes
-Upgraded full 12v electronic ignition system with rebuilt 280zx e12-80 distributor and new NGK coil, wires and plugs.
-MSA 6-1 headers, straight pipe, and vintage Ansa dual tip stacked muffler.
-280zx 5 speed tranny with Redline mt-90 fluid
-new clutch master and slave
-Fidanza light weight 10 lb flywheel
-Exedy clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot
-280zx R200 differential with new seals and Redline 75-90 gear oil
-Champion 3 row radiator
-new motor mounts, tranny mount, alternator, voltage regulator, starter, fan clutch, fuel pump, etc, etc.
-all new hoses/seals/gaskets everywhere
-gas tank and all lines cleaned and restored
-vapor tank deleted
-Brake system fully rebuilt, new calipers in front, new wheel cylinders in the rear. New rubber lines, pads and shoes all the way around. New master cylinder and brake booster up front.
-Vogtland lowering springs and stagg shocks
-Xenon front bumper/spoiler
-JDM tail lights
-fender mirrors/shaved door mounting holes
-new emblems all around with JDM fairlady fender emblems
-Rota aleica wheels (JDM sakura cherry blossom replicas), 15x8 -0 offset with new kumho tires
A few points and things I would fix for potential buyers. I donot currently have A/C, heat or a stereo installed or have the parts but you can put aftermarket systems in if you want. I would do new rubber weatherstrippingon the tail lights, hatch and doors, and put some sealant around the windshield rubbers, they are 50 years old and exhaust fumes + some water can get through if its raining hard. I park in a garage but if your parking outdoors or driving in the rain a lot getting everything totally sealed up would be first priority. It has had a lot of suspension work/parts installed so I'd go get a cheap front wheel alignment done as well. All of the factory gauges work except the clock but they can be a little laggy and jumpy at times, I would pull the dash, take of the cases off of the backs of the gauges and clean them out with a toothbrush and some wd-40, gauges getting gummed up with 50 years of dirt and corrosionis very common with 240z's. This car was built as a driver and is ready to go though, I drive it every day, runs great!
I have well over 15k in parts in this build not including the cost of the car. Asking $11,999 cash or best reasonable offer, I am negotiable if you bring me cash but I will not respond to ridiculous offers so don't waste your time or mine. I do not need to sell this car and I'm not giving it away. I will consider trades for a buildable low rust Datsun 620 truck + cash, clean G35 coupe + cash, or possibly straight even trade for an R32 gts with a TX title. You can pick up and drive it anywhere or I can deliver it on my trailer within a reasonable distance of Houston or ship nationwide at buyers expense. Paypal deposit due within 24 hours, full payment via bank check, transfer or cash within 7 days. Email with any questions.
As far as rust goes, car is very solid for a driver but obviously we have some rust, this is a rat rod, not a concourse restoration. There is surface rust and some small holes on the body, quarters have some rust though around bottom (easy to cut off and cover with flares if you want). Body is clear coated over the patina, The worst rust spots are on upper tail light panel inside the hatch (pictured), still solid enough to hold everything together but will need to be patched or replaced if your restoring the body. Drivers floor pan has an old patch from the 80's, passenger had some rust around the factory drain holes but was still very solid so I just fiberglass mat patched over everything and put inhibitor on the rest of the rust. Common rust areas like the battery tray and spare tire well are solid.
As far as the mechanical restoration/build goes, all aftermarket parts are brand new with less than 500 miles on them:
-Fresh rebuilt L28 (2.8 liter from a 280z) with dished pistons. Early E88 head and oversized stainless valves. Runs awesome, 210psi compression all the way across.
-Brand new (not rebuilt) dual hif44 SU Carbs, new technology carbs with integrated float chambers, do not require any choke to start and handle modern ethanol mix gas very well. Fully synced and tuned.
-K&N dual intakes
-Upgraded full 12v electronic ignition system with rebuilt 280zx e12-80 distributor and new NGK coil, wires and plugs.
-MSA 6-1 headers, straight pipe, and vintage Ansa dual tip stacked muffler.
-280zx 5 speed tranny with Redline mt-90 fluid
-new clutch master and slave
-Fidanza light weight 10 lb flywheel
-Exedy clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot
-280zx R200 differential with new seals and Redline 75-90 gear oil
-Champion 3 row radiator
-new motor mounts, tranny mount, alternator, voltage regulator, starter, fan clutch, fuel pump, etc, etc.
-all new hoses/seals/gaskets everywhere
-gas tank and all lines cleaned and restored
-vapor tank deleted
-Brake system fully rebuilt, new calipers in front, new wheel cylinders in the rear. New rubber lines, pads and shoes all the way around. New master cylinder and brake booster up front.
-Vogtland lowering springs and stagg shocks
-Xenon front bumper/spoiler
-JDM tail lights
-fender mirrors/shaved door mounting holes
-new emblems all around with JDM fairlady fender emblems
-Rota aleica wheels (JDM sakura cherry blossom replicas), 15x8 -0 offset with new kumho tires
A few points and things I would fix for potential buyers. I donot currently have A/C, heat or a stereo installed or have the parts but you can put aftermarket systems in if you want. I would do new rubber weatherstrippingon the tail lights, hatch and doors, and put some sealant around the windshield rubbers, they are 50 years old and exhaust fumes + some water can get through if its raining hard. I park in a garage but if your parking outdoors or driving in the rain a lot getting everything totally sealed up would be first priority. It has had a lot of suspension work/parts installed so I'd go get a cheap front wheel alignment done as well. All of the factory gauges work except the clock but they can be a little laggy and jumpy at times, I would pull the dash, take of the cases off of the backs of the gauges and clean them out with a toothbrush and some wd-40, gauges getting gummed up with 50 years of dirt and corrosionis very common with 240z's. This car was built as a driver and is ready to go though, I drive it every day, runs great!
I have well over 15k in parts in this build not including the cost of the car. Asking $11,999 cash or best reasonable offer, I am negotiable if you bring me cash but I will not respond to ridiculous offers so don't waste your time or mine. I do not need to sell this car and I'm not giving it away. I will consider trades for a buildable low rust Datsun 620 truck + cash, clean G35 coupe + cash, or possibly straight even trade for an R32 gts with a TX title. You can pick up and drive it anywhere or I can deliver it on my trailer within a reasonable distance of Houston or ship nationwide at buyers expense. Paypal deposit due within 24 hours, full payment via bank check, transfer or cash within 7 days. Email with any questions.
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