CHEVROLET C-10 swb roller 1967-72 professionally acid dipped cab

I think you can see this isn't some half finished abandoned project. I've built several trucks similar to this one over the last couple years to be sold as ready to finish rollers. At this point you can buy everything you need to build one of these trucks out of a catalog EXCEPT a new cab and that's why I started building these. I've got a small shop with virtually no overhead so I'm able to focus on quality over quantity even if it takes a little more time to finish. The project started with a fairly solid 1969 shortbed C10 but instead of doing several smaller patch areas I chose to replace the entire floor. rockers. and cab corners. Everything was welded in place and the rocker to cab corner seams were fully welded for a smooth look. At this point the cab was sent off to REDI-STRIP in Indianapolis. IN where it spent a week being stripped and acid dipped. I prefer acid dipping for rust/paint removal over other methods because it leaves every nook and cranny with clean bare metal as the entire cab is fully submerged whereas other methods you can only remove rust/paint where you can reach by hand or with sand/soda blast equipment. With acid dipping you know that areas like inside the cowl/firewall. inside the roof and driprails. and inside door pillars/roof pillars are all clean bare metal. There is also less loss of metal than there often is with sandblasting as the acid only reacts to the rust and leaves a zinc phosphate layer on all clean metal that resists new flash rusting much longer than bare metal alone would. While the cab was being dipped the doors were rebuilt almost from scratch. the old skins were removed and the rusty inner bottoms cut off. New inner bottoms were fully welded on and ground smooth before the door frames were lightly sandblasted inside and out. All the seams inside the doors were then seamsealed and the doors were epoxy primed inside and out and LIZARD SKIN sound deadener was sprayed on the inside of the door frames and the new skins before they went on. The door frames were lined up on the cab before the new skins were put on to ensure a proper fit. once fitted and welded EVERYTHING was skim coated with filler. the doors inside and out. the entire cab. even the dash and kickpanels. Hours and hours were spent blocking everything flat and smooth and making sure that all door and rocker gaps were uniform and level. I don't just say the cab and doors are flat because I threw filler on and buried it in primer. I actually guide coat the filler itself to 150 grit before i spray everything with a good coat of epoxy and then a few coats of hi build. I then guide coat the primer and block sand everything flat to 150 grit once again before it all gets a couple more coats of hi build. So you really are getting something that's gonna be flatter than most trucks out there after a pretty easy finish sand. The interior of the cab was all seamsealed. epoxied. and covered with LIZARD SKIN sound deadener and LIZARD SKIN ceramic insulation. Inside the roof and rockers was coated with anti rust through a long flexible undercoat wand. The bottom of the truck was also taken care of as every unnecessary opening was closed off either with a metal piece cut to fit or with seamsealer and it was all epoxied and sprayed with 2 quart kits of RAPTOR BEDLINER. The truck was still functioning and driven before I took it apart so there are many parts included in this listing from the visors to the door glass and handles. pedal assemblies. gauges. an almost brand new glove box. steering column. fenders that are in pretty decent shape. a hood in very good condition. hinges. a pretty good grille. bench seat. and many odds and ends. A set of brand new door weatherstrip and energy suspension poly body mounts also come with it. The frame was also disassembled and some of the typical trouble areas were taken care of. The front crossmember was opened up on the edge to remove rust and the ears of the crossmember were removed so that another pair in better condition(also included) can be either bolted or welded on . whichever you choose to do yourself. A set of sandblasted and primed upper and lower A arms is also included. This is obviously still a project but the hard stuff is done and instead of paying a restoration shop and waiting til they're done to see what you've paid all that money for you can look it over before you pay. Before you bid think about what it would cost to buy a shortbed c10. a new complete floor. rockers. corners. the time and cost of acid dipping and the time and cost of all the disassembly. cutting. fitting. welding. filling. sanding. priming. bedlining. and materials. If you have any questions or for more pics email. text. or call 260-602-3901. I reserve the right to end the auction early at any time as the vehicle is also for sale locally.