1987 Monte Carlo SS - NO RESERVE AUCTION!!!

1987 ChevroletMonte Carlo SS - NO RESERVE!!!!
I'm downsizing my fleet and thinning my personal heard out a bit. I bought this G-body in April 2016 hoping to make it a knock around shop car I used to make local runs and what not. After purchases, I drove it ON and OFF the trailer and she sat out back of my shop until July 2017. I went to start her up July and she wouldn't fire so in the shop she went for some TLC. One of the main reasons I bought this car was that it had not been BUTCHERED over the years. It has OG everything (tape deck, A/C box, 95% of the emissions stuff, and wiring had no interestingsplices in the factory harness). The odometer reads 11,141 miles so I will venture to say it has flipped at leastonce so lets call it 111,141 miles. The motor is healthy with good idle oil pressure (30 to 40 lbs giving it gas). The trans goes into all gears and operates as it should (was a little low on fluid but has been topped up). Lighting works as it should (brake lights, tail lights, head lights) however some of the trim and accessory light will need some work. The floorboards and trunk are SOLID!!! The rear passenger board is kinda soft and will need some work in the future, but that's it in terms of rot.
Here is what I PERSONALLY have done to the car to get it up and running again:
Work Performed

• Rebuilt the Quadrajet E4ME Computer Controlled Carberetor (CCC). All new gaskets, inlet filter, seals, float, accelerator pump, needle, and seat. I also replaced the choke thermostat coil and choke connector. I have "running" tune on it now (with no Service Engine Soon lights) but it will probably need MCS fine tuned (as I did not have the depth tool to do so). Personally, I'd delete the CCC, CC distributor, and ECM computer and replace with a NON computer controlled carb and HEI Big cap distributor...but that's for the new owner to decided. If you know anything about these computer controlled carbs, they are a pain in the balls to rebuild, tune, and are temperamental so a fresh rebuild on this car is a PLUS!!! Clean fuel and she will be happy for many many miles.

• Installed Oxygen Sensor. It was missing when I bought it. In the video below, this is the reason the Service Engine Light Soon is on. After replacing, the light went off.

• Drained fuel tank and refilled with fresh fuel. Obviously the cheap fuel of today goes bad after a few month and I had let her sit for over a year. After carb rebuild, tank was drained and refiled with fresh fuel and she fired right up. There was a slight tinge of brown so there may be some junk in the tank. Par for the course with a 30 year old ride.

• Installed 195 degree Stant Thermostat (was missing) and Flushed coolant system and refilled with fresh fluid. Previous dude replaced the radiator (looks brand new) but refilled it with just water. The water was pretty brown on draining so I flushed it twice with straight water to get as much sediment and scale out as possible. Car comes up to temp fine and does not overheat. The car is however missing it's factory shroud. The clutch fan without the shroud is worthless so I have ordered a 14" electric fan on order that will be installed flush with the radiator by the end of the auction. This should cool the radiator much better while idle and while moving.

• Cleaned up engine bay and plugged looses vacuum connections. As I stated, 95% of the emissions stuff is still on the car and functioning. There were a few missing or disconnected vacuum hoses which I either reconnected or cap'ed off with plugs. The vac diagram sticker is missing on the car but I'm pretty confident I buttoned up any vac leaks. New owner may want to go through and recheck all vac hoses though as some looked pretty brittle. Once again, PERSONALLY, I would delete as many vac hoses (emissions crap) as I possibly could if you go the emissions delete route. Chasing vac hose leaks suck.

• Repaired trunk lid lock latching mechanism with new lock and metal work. At some point, someone thought a proper repair for this issue involved scrap sheet metal and rivets. It clearly did not fix the problem and a bungee cord was used to latch the trunk. I ripped that JUNK outand spot welded in clean sheet metal over the damaged area, aligned the trunk latch mechanism, and welded the latch mechanism to the new sheet metal. I also put a few small beads on the actual latch hook at the bottom of the trunk as well as it had some movement. So yeah...a proper permanentsolution. Trunk now closes and opens as it should AND has a key lol.

• Inspected the brake system and suspension components. She rides and stops as she should but the ball joints, tie rods ends, and bushings could use a greasing. Car tracks straight but an alignment check couldn't hurt. The brake fluid looks disgusting so I would recommend the first order of business to be a drain and flush of the braking system with new DOT 3/4 fluid. If I have time to do it I will flush before new owner picks up (gratis). But as is...SHE STOPS...GOOD.

• Power windows work (up and down) but are SLOW. I'm sure the window tract greasing would help the slowness, but the motor may be weak after 30 years.

Still To Do/ Problems

• As you can tell from the pictures, previous owner must a had a little to much sipping liquor one eveningand clipped banged up the front nose clip. TO ME...it looks like he replaced the front nose cover and tried to straighten out the drivers and passenger side fenders. Let me repeat...the front nose is NOT CRACKED!!!! However, in my opinion it needs two new front fenders and some alignmentwork to get the nose, fenders, and hood looking right.

• Tires are pretty old and cracking but still hold air and have descent tread. Should be addressed by new owner.

• Needs turn signal switch/cam. When you turn the lights on the right turn signal is solid and the turn signal lever in right turn or left turn selection do not function.

• Tachometer does not function. When you start it, it sweeps far right and returns to zero (at which point it does not register RPM's at any range while the engine is running). I know that the gauge is getting power, as would be evident by the 280 degree sweep on first start, however, I have checked the signal wire leading from the distributor to the tach and it does not look frayed or broken. Researching the Gbody and Monte Carlo forums suggest that the gauge board uses a printed circuit board which becomes de-laminated over time. I have not troubleshooted this issue any further. Common Gbody issue of this era. There are gauge rebuilders but an Autometer tach would be cheaper (although not original). Speedo, oil pressure gauge, fuel gauge, voltmeter, and temp gauges function AS THEY SHOULD.

• There is a noticeable exhaust leak on the driver bank side of the motor. I think it's the drivers side manifold to down pipe flange connection leaking, but it could also be the manifold gasket. I have not inspected further then that. If you go headers, you'll be dumping the exhaust logs anyway so this will correct the issue either way. If you keep stock, some felpro gaskets and donuts will seal the leak up.

Exterior

Trunk

Engine
Interior



Videos

1987 Monte Carlo SS for Sale - Video 1 - YouTube

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1987 Monte Carlo SS for sale - Video 2 - YouTube

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[isdntekvideo]

If you made it this far...that means you are still interested...so let me be clear...THIS IS A PROJECT AND WILL NEED SOME WORK!!! With that in mind...let me get some of the dumb questions out of the way...

• NO...driving it 1,600 miles back home would not be advisable. I love Roadkill adventures much as the next guy but unless you have a studio van behind you, I would advise against such a long trek (unless you are mechanically capable).

• It's a 305, not a 540 Big Block so you will not be doing 11 second quarter miles in it's present configuration. The pipes on the car sound good for a 305 (I was actually impressed when she fired up) but alas, a smogged 305 is not a speed demon.

• Title is a clean Virginia title IN MY NAME. I do deals all the time and HATE sketchy title paperwork. No issues here. For you out of state fellas, check with your DMV to make sure you get exactly what you need to title and register in your state. VA only requires a signed title and bill of sale.

Terms & Conditions
This is about as accurate an assessmentI can give on the car during my repairs and time with it getting back up and running. The starting price is what I got into the car. If you win it at the asking price...you will have won my labor time fixing it for free ; )
I provided PLENTY OF LARGE PICTURES and TWO VIDEOS!!!! for you to looks the car over. Please, PLEASE, PLEASE...NO DEADBEATS BIDDERS!!!!
Good luck yall,
Average Joe