1973 Chevrolet Camaro RS Coupe 2-Door 5.7L

1973 Camaro Sport Coupe. Originally a base 350 sport coupe with manual transmission but now it has an RS split bumper front end. Completely rust free and very clean looking car with nice interior. If you're looking for a show car, this isn't for you. The exterior has ok paint with cosmetic flaws and is slightly predented so you don't have to worry about rogue shopping carts hunting you down in a parking lot!
This car is a driver and for the driver who wants to do some canyon carving. The gearing, overdrive transmission and wide torque curve means it plays nice with others. Very comfy on the highway and in traffic.
Mileage is unknown on the car. I've put several thousand on it but I got with no working speedo. If it makes you feel better, I've rebuilt pretty much everything!

Engine:
350 4 bolt main 010 block with high nickle content
9.5:1 with no pinging on pump gas
steel crank and rods
Edelbrock Performer RPM Top End kit with 64cc aluminum heads with matching hydraulic cam and Air Gap manifold makes very reliable and driveable 410hp 408ftlbs torque
Demon 650cfm double pumper with annual discharge boosters dialed in with a wideband O2 sensor
double roller timing chain
MSD ignition and billet vacuum advance distributor
Edelbrock roller rockers
Heddman ceramic headers
2.5" coated exhaust with X-pipe, Magnaflows, and stock exit = sounds great!
Aluminum HD radiator with factory HD shroud and fan
Dialed in carburetor and advance curve so no pinging on pump gas but it hauls ass!

MSD PCV air/oil separator
Canton road race pan with Melling “Shark Tooth” oil pump

Drivetrain:
Richmond (Doug Nash) 5 speed with Long shifter = quick out of the hole and 2500RPM at 75MPH :)
Lakewood blowproof bellhousing
lightweight flywheel and new Hays HD clutch, pilot and throw out bearing
updated Z-bar clutch linkage with spherical rod ends
balanced driveshaft and new Spicer u-joints
10 bolt rear end with new axles and bearings
2.73:1 ratio
PowerTrax no-slip posi
Chassis and suspension:
Straight frame
aluminum body bushings
subframe connectors
stiff lowering springs (2") front and rear -- Hotchkis rears, Eibach fronts (577# rate)
AFCO specially valved shocks
powder coated stock LCA's with steel bushings
SPC adjustable UCA's with delrin bushings and tall ball joint
1.25" front sway bar
.75" adjustable rear sway bar
PTFB G-braces
All new steering linkage, wheel bearings, ball joints, bushings, etc.
Brakes:
Front 2000 Corvette 325mm C5 drilled and slotted StopTech cryogenic discs with 4th generation Camaro calipers (slightly bigger pistons over vette)
Rear 1979 Trans Am drilled and slotted rear discs with great working parking brakes!
Adjustable proportioning valve
Miscellaneous:
Steel cowl induction hood
Legend 17x9 5 spoke wheels with 5"BS
Excellent Riken Raptor 300 UTQT directional tires 245/45ZR-17 front, 275/40ZR-17 rear
Autometer Phantom II gauges

Morris Classic Concepts seat belts
quad tail light conversion
H4 headlights
MSD alternator
Edelbrock H2O pump

factory HD Z28 fan and shroud = never overheats
nice condition interior

Alarm system with electric locks and trunk release

Sound deadening material

Custom AutoSound 300 watt retro stereo and Pioneer 6x9 speakers

The cars suspension and brakes are set up more for autocrossing and road racing so really rough or potholed roads are no fun. The chassis is very stiff because of the subframe connectors and G-Bar too.All the lighting is rewired with relays so the lights get full voltage. If one ever goes out, change the relay first. I have them labeled.Everything electrical works including the cigarette lighter. I rewired the dash but didn't disturb the rest of the wiring because it's in fine shape.
I have fresh Royal Purple HPS 5-30 synthetic in the motor with some extra ZDDP to protect the cam lobes. Next oil change I'd suggest 10-40 and I'd probably go back to Valvoline VR-1. The trans and diff both have fresh Redline gear oil
I've kept all my receiptsYou'll get all of them along with a lot of spare parts I didn't use or took off including a very nice 4 season car cover - no scrap I promise!

What's good:
Runs awesome! Zero rust! Very reliable and driveable in any situation. Handles like a slot car, loves the tight and twisty curves but also has the legs for long highways drives. I built it to be very driveable and user friendly, but also be a monster when desired. Needs nothing and is ready to be a daily driver, an autocross threat, or a road course warrior. Stops on a dime. It's very comfortable for long drives too!
What's bad:
Has a salvage title. It was rescued from a wrecking yard with left rear quarter panel damage and no motor.
Has new left rear quarter panel.
Paint is driver quality but gets lots of compliments
Why am I selling it? Good question since it's the best car I've ever owned and I love it! But I have to get started on the $$$ to send my son to college
Video of car before some upgrades ….. vimeo.com/109085891

Another video here from last week ......vimeo.com/220169521

Feel free to ask questions!

Tim

On May-10-17 at 20:58:36 PDT, seller added the following information:On May-10-17 at 21:08:14 PDT, seller added the following information:

Motivated seller with reduced reserve!

On May-10-17 at 22:00:45 PDT, seller added the following information:

The hood and front fenders could use better aligning. They're aftermarket. I never bothered dealing with it because to me the cosmetics are not as important as how well a car works and performs. Also, I just remembered the rear glass has some scratches in it. The passenger door has new glass and the windshield is new also. I also have functioning windshield squirters, which is pretty hard to set up with a cowl hood!