1968 Chevrolet C10 Pickup Base 4.1L

Truck: Very Solid body, ot much rust. ORIGINAL PATINA. Most of the chrome is intact but not on the truck. Brand new inner/outer rockers, atched kicker panels left and right side, rand new battery box. Could use cab corners but sounds and looks fine without them. Small hole of rust in lower left corner of passenger door but not to serious. Little bit of rust above the wheel on the back left side, and also a small crease in the same area. The bed floor is steel and in amazing shape to be an original '68 bed. The bed is so water tight we had to drill hols. The holes have been drilled in each front corner to drain water. Little bit of rust around where the inner fenders bolt down to the bed floor but again, ot that bad. Tail gate hardwear is in a little worse shape. The latch works fine, s does the extension bar but because of some rust at the base of the lower-left bed rail, he tail gate will rattle off the hinges if the tail gate is left down. But if it's left up its no issue. Actual mileage on the truck is about 192,000 but the engine only has 5,000. Also has a brand new battery. Drive train: Freshly overhauled (5,000 miles) 250 straight 6 with a rebuilt Rockford 1 barrel carb sitting on top. New parts in the engine include: new timing gear set, ebuilt oil pump, ew rings, ew head/valves/lifters. This engine ('80 model, e think) came original with the integrated head design but I find it dumb so I replaced the integrated head with a normal head and intake/exhaust manifold setup. The intake manifold had a crack in it, ut was brazed up and does not leak. There is also one small exhaust leak at the donut on the pipe and I simply don't have the energy to fix it. Runs fine without it. Going back together everything was plasti-gauged and was in quite good shape. Does use some oil because it is not been driven enough to set the rings yet and with the proper blow-by tube installed I think it would bring it to a minimum. Engine on a good day, unning non-ethanol 93 gas gets about 11.5-12 MPG, ut only because of the granny 4 speed and 3:70ish rear gearing. The truck was a 3 speed and the transmission was so worn out I elected to change it and bought a 4 speed out of a C30 dually. Aluminum bell-housing, rand new clutch/pressure plate, esurfaced flywheel, nd new throw-out bearing. Transmission is under 100,000 miles best I know of. Drive shaft is one out of an F-250 that was mated to Chevrolet yokes and splines, rand new carrier bearing and u-joints. Rear gear is somewhere around a 3:70-4:11 because of the 3 speed, nd is now entirely to low because of the 4 speed, ut don't have the time or need to change the rear gear out. Drives fine and you can push a phone pole over with this thing. Brakes: Nearly entirely new brake system. (only the drums are original) All 4 wheels are still drum, ut have been rebuilt. New junction box, new hard lines from the box to the wheels and new soft lines on the front and rear. These are manual brakes so there is no booster, ut it is a brand new master cylinder. They stop fine, nd I can attest to that with more than 1 close calls. Suspension: This was the only style truck that was offered with a coil spring rear end and it rides like a Cadillac. Also super easy to bag if that's what you wanna do. Front suspension is all original as well but is in very good shape and freshly greased. The sway bar was removed to make the manual steering easier, nd that trick really works well. Trust me, ou'll never feel steering this smooth in a new car. Tires/wheels: Brand new 255/70/r15 Cooper tires on the front, nd older but still in great shape 31/10.50/r15 Lemans radial A/T's on the back. Rear wheels could use spacers because with a big load in the bed the inner side walls do rub the inner fender but drives fine and doesn't rub if there's no load. If after a deposit is made, ou need the truck to sit here a while before you can pick it up I can work with you. Not in my way, o no big deal.Questions, ive me an email at zdude4820@yahoo.com.Thanks for looking!