Description
Selling my 1965 Chevy II Nova 4 door, t's in good driver's condition. Below find a list off as many of the new parts as I could remember as well as an honest list of things which could/should be replaced still. This is a good deal on an excellent car that has served me very well, as always been reliable and I have enjoyed owning. I don't want to sell it but my wife is pregnant with our second child and so some of the toys have to go. I work for a rod and custom shop so every thing that has been done to this car under my ownership has been done professionally and correctly as well as you'll find a list at the bottom of things I can include in the sale for an additional price, ut if there is something not listed feel free to ask and I can either give you a price or say no, o harm no foul.I can ship the car but will not take any over seas monetary transactions, erifiable US transactions only!!Secondly: I am willing to take a trade however I must be specific because I won't take just anything. No matter what the trade I need a minimum of $4000 in cash for the deal but in addition to that I will also consider taking your project in trade in whatever condition it may be in. Doesn't need to run or drive, ut must be able to roll. For the rest I don't care if it's falling apart, as no seats, usted through, tc. but it cannot be a scrapper, ust be able to be repaired at some point, o frame damage. Would LOVE to have an E100 econoline truck if you have that ;) or corvair ramp side or shorty van, tc you get the idea.Third: if interested in a package deal, or $12.5k total I can include a 31 ford two door sedan body, rame, uspension, mall block Chevy motor, nd trans. Custom frame, hopped and channeled body, ody is rough tho and needs rust repair but is repairable, rame is good, otor and trans are good.The Good:Good running, eliable SBC 350 V8 with vortec center bolt headsTH350 auto trans no slipping or grindingNew OEM water pumpNew aluminum core LS conversion radiator (larger)New swivel style water neckNew radiator hosesNew 160° thermostatNew 140amp one-wire alternatorNew Chevy II Only low mount alternator bracketsNew Energy Suspension urethane motor and transmission mountsNew OEM wheel cylinders front and rearNew OEM master cylinderNew OEM soft brake lines front and rearNew semi metallic brake shoes and adjusting springs front and rearNew OEM wheel bearings front and rearNew wheel lug studs/nuts front and rearAmerican racing Torque thrusters 15" wheels~80% tread BFG radial T/A white letter tiresNew Monroe shocks front and rearNew OEM rear mono leaf springs and bushingsNew rear spring perches and U boltsNew 2" front drop spindles and adjustable rear shacklesNew5 lugV8 hubsNew OEM fuel tank and strapsNew OEM fuel senderNew OEM mechanical fuel pumpNew inline fuel pressure regulatorNew OER Nova SS 4 gauge (replaces factory dummy lights with gauges for ammeter/fuel level/water temp and oil pressure. All work except ammeter because that's a fire hazard with a high output alternator but I will also include the new OER ammeter shunt if you want to risk a fire)New OER center tachometer (the above two gauge sets and appropriate senders were very expensive and they all work)New OEM appropriate senders for SS gaugesNew HEI distributor cap/coil/rotorNew AC Delco spark plugsNew 8mm spark plug wires (will be replaced again prior to sale in order to make proper routing and mounting)New custom made manifold back exhaust systemNew Thrush 18" glass packs (not too loud but sounds great when you let it loose)New Edelbrock 750cfm carb with electric chokeNew Edelbrock air cleanerNew Edelbrock polished intake manifoldNew polished valve covers and gasketsNew OEM hood hinges and springsNew custom blue/gray vinyl seats front and rear with new seat foamNew gray carpetNew gray headliner and visorsNew OEM dome light (not currently connected but can be if preferred)New OEM headlight and ignition switchesNew armrests and pads all four doorsNew OEM tail light and reverse light lenses (reverse lights do not function due to change from power glide to TH350 transmission, an be fixed with appropriate neutral safety switch)New 6x9" speakers front and rear2 x 12" subs in trunkKenwood CD player with Bluetooth/USB/aux etc.All trim is there except for the lower dash trim (didn't have it when I bought the car and I didn't mind it) and dash pad (dash is painted to match car)Things the car needs (or, he Bad):Steering gear box ($300) little sloppy, t's 50 years old original pieceTie rod ends ($40-$80) may as well change em with the gear box, have uniball ends available, o grease no rubber boot to rot and breakAlignment ($80)Lower dash trim ($380) looks okay without it but previous owner added carbon fiber there in place of trimTurn signal switch ($50) switch is faulty, t is currently disconnected and wires jumped to provide brake and tail lights, asy fast fix, his just happened I just haven't gotten to it yet, ill probably be replaced prior to saleWiper blades ($40) one is broken on drivers side so it comes off wiper arm if you try to use it, o I just don't drive it in the rain.The Body:Needs a new hood ($300ish) and passenger fender repaired, ood was not latched all the way and flew up on while driving, he wind forced the corner of the hood into the passenger fender, he fender can be fixed, he hood cannot be. Hood trim is still good, ood latch is good, ood hinges and hinge springs have already been replaced. I did NOT crash when this happened, ortunately I had my window down and was able to immediately poke my head out the window and drive to a safe stop. The corners of the hood folded up and cannot be fixed (well they could be but it would cost more than buying a new hood). After the hinges were replaced I banged out the corners of the hood and remounted it, t latches and stays safely down and works for now, ut will need to be replaced for a perfect fit and alignment. The fender ding from the corner of the hood can be fixed rather easily I just figured I would do that when I replaced the hood.Car has two small surface rust bubbles in the same spots on either sides directly above rear wheel. Roughly the size of a quarter and not rusted through. Can be repaired easily.Other than these few issues the car runs and drives perfectly and starts right up every single time with no problems. Very reliable and makes good power for a small block.I work for a hot rod/custom shop and am capable of making any repairs or changes the buyer may want and at a VERY discounted price and further for the following rates I can do the make the following things available at the time of sale:+$1000 complete rewire with modern blade style fuse box and relays (consider that if you took this car to my shop to have this done the wiring parts alone would be roughly $600 plus 30-40hrs in labor at $75/hr, t's very expensive, am the wiring guy at the shop and I do show quality wiring I am VERY good at what I do, ou will not find a deal like this especially at this quality anywhere else, can provide pictures or previous work)+$600 front disc brake conversion, gain essentially this is only paying for parts and I'll do the labor for free, ncludes booster and new dual reservoir master cylinder and prop valve. Another deal you won't find elsewhere.+400ish buy the new steering box and I will install it and new uniball tie rod ends for free and have it aligned+/-$1000 or so will get you a new hood, ender repaired, nd two rust spots repaired and all prepped for paint, don't paint so I can't include that, e have a painter but he sets his own prices and I'm sure he can work it out with you if you so desire.Essentially whatever you want to do to the car I can include in the sale with the purchase of the parts, ithin reason, or instance im not gonna swap in an LS motor for free because that is an obscene amount of work. But as long as you purchase the car and the necessary parts to do whatever reasonable thing you wanna do, asser front end, link rear, hatever, 'll include the labor to do it, ree of charge.Sent from my iPhone in the cradles of doom
