1959 Buick Electra 225 59 Cadillac rat rod resto Nailhead Dynaflow Pro touring

1959 Buick Electra 225, runs & drives, great candidate for restoration or just drive it like I do. And I drive it regularly.
The Good:
New brakes all 4 corners, shoes and hardware (original power drums) Stops very well.
New brake lines (4)
New dual exhaust
Converted to electronic ignition (Pertronix)
New Carpet
Power 6 way front bench seal that works
Power windows-fronts work good, rears are slow but work
LOTS of surface rust, no holes or bad rot that I can see
Floorpans are very solid, original and have no patches. Dont need any either. I have photos from carpet change.
Floats down the road without many squeaks or rattles.
Includes a set of straight front fender and hood moldings to replace damaged originals. I have new fasteners too.
Dome light and dash lights work, as do turn signals, etc.
Tires are in great shape, and match.
Deluxe wheelcovers with factory spinners, all 4 good shape.
Original spare and jack
Doors close like an old Frigidaire
Power steering is the easiest Ive ever used
The Bad:
Wipers, radio and blower motor not working. I have not looked into why, looks like all parts are intact though.
Transmission shift great, no slipping, but has to be shifted manually. Car sat for well over 20 years in dry storage, and I dont know anything about Dynaflows, possibly a vacuum line? modulator stuck? Other than that, no known problems with transmission.
Rear valance chrome is bad. Panel could be stripped and painted, but you arent re-chroming this one.
Pass side rocker molding has a healthy dent, may be repairable?
Rear bumper is tweaked, but looks like an easy fix, needs re-chrome, as does most of the other bezels, door handles etc.
Its a 58 year old car. It has quirks. If you have owned anything this old, you probably understand, if not, you need to before you consider owning one. Its always gonna need a little something done to it. Thats just how it is with old cars, boats, motorcycles, wives, lawnmowers, etc. So please ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU BID.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY:
ONCE THE AUCTION IS OVER, THE HIGH BIDDER ONLY NEEDS TO PAY ME AND PICK UP THE CAR. HIGH BID AT AUCTION'S END DOES NOT MEAN BIDDER GETS TO COME OUT AND NEGOTIATE OR THINK ABOUT BUYING THE CAR. HIGH BID AT AUCTIONS CLOSE MEANS THAT HIGH BIDDER WILL OWN THE CAR AS SOON AS FULL PAYMENT IS MADE. FULL PAYMENT IS HIGHEST BID AT AUCTION'S END.
IF YOU ARE NOT AWARE, EBAY CHARGES QUITE A BIT OF MONEY TO THE SELLER WHEN THE AUCTION ENDS, AND I HAVE TO PAY THAT, EVEN IF YOU CHANGE YOUR MIND. SO IF YOU ARENT SURE, OR IF YOU LIKE TO HAGGLE AND NEGOTIATE, DONT BID. IF I WAS INTERESTED IN HAGGLING, ID JUST SELL IT IN THE FRONT YARD.
SHIPPING:
I will assist in loading, or drop the car off close to Cleveland Hopkins Airport no charge. All fees, etc related to shipment are at the expense of the high bidder.
WARRANTY: None. Buyer is responsible for any insurance and liability immediately after full payment is made. This car is free on bill as soon as it leaves my driveway. As soon as it leaves my driveway it's not coming back.
IM HAPPY TO SEND YOU PHOTOS OF ANYTHING SPECIFIC, BUT PLEASE DONT ASK UNLESS YOU ARE A SERIOUS BUYER.