1922 Ford Model T Dry Lakes Hot Rod Roadster Race of Gentlemen TROG Scta Drag

1922 Ford Model T

Technical specifications of Ford Model T 1922

Price: -
Item location: Haddam, Connecticut, United States
Make: Ford
Model: Model T
Trim: Roadster
Year: 1922
VIN: XXXXXXXXXXXX
Color: Blue
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: Manual
Drive type: RWD
Vehicle Title: Clear
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Car description

"THE NUTTIN' SPECIAL"1922 Ford Model T Dry Lakes Roadster~Built for & run at the 2014 Race of Gentlemen~ This 1922 Ford Roadster was built for and run at the 2014 Race of Gentlemen in Wildwood. New Jersey. It is a 100% period correct pre-war hot rod based off an original 1940's dry lakes roadster (see black & white photo). The car came in 3rd out of 83 entries it's first time out and was very competitive. After the race. the mildly hopped up '36 Ford Flathead V8 engine was replaced with a good running stock '36 engine which is what currently sits in the car. It will only need a carburetor and distributer to run. The custom aluminum "bubble" hood top seen in the race photos was kept by the builder. so I had an exact replacement made that will go with the car. BODY:- Original Steel 1922 Ford Roadster Body- Original Steel 1925 Ford Roadster Turtle Deck- Chopped Original Steel 1937 Ford Truck radiator shell- Custom made Aluminum "bubble" hood top with Aluminum sides- Full tonneau cover CHASSIS:- 1925 Ford Model T frame. bobbed rear. flipped front crossmember- 1937 Plymouth tube front axle. mounted suicide style with custom hairpins- 1941 Dodge steering box- Trunk mounted battery- Mechanical rear hand brakes DRIVETRAIN:- 1936 Ford Flathead 221ci V8 (stock)- Custom full length lakes headers (crude. but how they used to do it!)- New Aluminum radiator (painted black)- 1937 Ford Truck 3spd Transmission- 1937 Ford Truck banjo rear. 3:54 gears with welded spider gears. hardtail mounted- Original 1940's Ford 16" steel wheels with bias ply tires (6. 00-16 front. 7. 50-16 rear) The four spoke steering wheel pictured is NOT included with the car. however I will include a nice vintage pierced three spoke wheel. Any three bolt steering wheel will fit the hub. I am also including two seats; the "half" bomber seat the car was raced with (tall driver sat on the floor with no seat bottom). and an original full bomber seat that I had intended to install. This car will accommodate any height driver. The gas tank is an original WWII Bomber oxygen tank which is mounted in the passenger compartment. The original Model T dash is fitted with new Stewart Warner "Wings" oil pressure and water temperature gauges. I am also including a very rare set of original EDDIE MEYER 21 stud aluminum heads. These heads generally sell for $1750-$2000 if and when you can find them (not to be confused with common 24 stud heads!) This set has had some prior work done to them and will need further work to run (one is warped slightly and a few of the chambers are badly pitted). They have a lot of potential and would be a perfect addition to this car. This is a race car with no lights. windshield. nbsp;or generator. There is no title. and no vin number that I am aware of. It is an original Ford frame so there may be a number hidden on it somewhere but I have not looked for it. It will be sold only on a bill of sale. Buyer is responsible for shipping. car is located at our shop in Haddam. CT. This car can be used in nostalgia racing events or possibly modified for street use with the proper requirements. Even for static display the car is great since it's such an authentic looking dry lakes era hot rod. I really hate to sell this car and had planned to race it myself however I just have too many projects going on right now. Feel free to call with any questions. 860-345-2100 days. 860-873-1092 evenings. On Mar-18-15 at 09:19:49 PDT. seller added the following information: I've had some questions regarding how the rear end is mounted. The rear end of the car is welded to both the frame and rear radius rods. It is extremely solid and well constructed. The threaded rod in the trunk photo is only helping to hold the rear of the turtle deck in place and has nothing to do with how the rear is mounted. The body is sturdily bolted to the frame.

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