Hot Street Rod '27-ish Ford Roadster

1927 Ford Other

Technical specifications of Ford Other 1927

Price: -
Condition: Used
Item location: Mesa, Arizona, United States
Make: Ford
Model: Other
Year: 1927
Mileage: 66,600
Vehicle Title: Rebuilt, Rebuildable & Reconstructed
You are interested? Contact the seller!

Car description

My almost '27 Ford Style Roadster being offered for sale due to my age and health problems that are telling me I'm not going to get this beauty on the road anytime soon.

Frame: 2"x 4" Steel tube, tapered both ends 30 + holes filled with with stainless steel tubes TIG welded in with stainless filler rod. The tubes should be polished inside after frame is powder coated or painted. The front cross member is 3" steel. A second cross member with more SS tubes is located where the front spring mounts attach to the frame for added torsional rigidity. All brackets CNC milled, most surface ground, all TIG welding with stainless filler rod. Wheelbase about 123". Frame is about 6" wider than typical 26/27 frame.The step mounted on the passenger side of the frame is from a Bell 206 Jet Ranger helicopter.

Front End: Chassis Engineering (Iowa) real forged, not cast, dropped axle, tube center with forged ends where the stress is higher. Chassis Engineering forged steel spindles with GM bearing and seal inner hub - no bearing adapters needed. Chassis Engineering disk brake caliper brackets. Wilwood Aluminum Calipers, Quarter elliptic front springs with rubber cushioned 4130 shackles. A bracket behind one front spring allows fore and aft adjustment of the front axle to establish proper wheel alignment and tracking in addition to the adjustable four bars.

Four bars: Fronts, 1" dia. 4130 steel tube radius rods with rubber cushioned front rod ends. ⅝" spherical rod ends at frame. Rears are 1.25" 4130 tubing with rubber cushioned ends and 3/4" rod ends to frame.

Steering: Three piece ¾" 4130 steel tubular steering shaft with Woodward Steering plated U-joints. These don't get rusty. A one piece steering shaft as seen on some T's become a chest harpoon in a crash. Tilt steering with partially collapsible steering supports that's not completed. Custom made, one of a kind steering wheel I made from aluminum with Koa wood shipped home from Hawaii, stainless fasteners and quick release to make it easier to steal. Replace the pin with a bot and locking not. Center take off GM rack and pinion steering with 1" 4130 tie rods to Chassis Engineering forged steering arms. Wheels are 14 x 6 '35 Ford style chrome wire wheels.

Brakes Front: New Chevy brake rotors, Wilwood aluminum calipers. Stainless steel lines. Tildon master cylinders with Wilwood balance bar for adjustable front to rear brake bias. Stainless Steel Lines Hydraulic clutch with Tildon master and Ford slave cylinders, stainless lines. Firewall hoop supporting steering and master cylinders. is 1.5" 4130 steel tube. Custom made CNC aluminum brake and clutch pedals.

Brakes Rear: Disk brakes with new 11" rotors and new Cadillac calipers, stainless stainless brake lines and cable operated parking brake. Park brake mechanism is Corvette.

Rear End is 10 bolt Chevy with a Model A buggy spring. Four bars are 1.25" 4130 steel tubes with large rod ends at frame and rubber cushioned ends at rear. Panhard bar is 4130 steel tube with cushioned ends for added stability. Rear spring shackle mounts have ball thrust bearings to allow the rear axle to move up and down in an arc without twisting the spring or spring shackles, clever huh. Everyone is welcomed to copy this. Wheels are 15 X 8 Chrome just to replace the wire wheels that leaked even after sealing again.

Engine Cooling: A new aftermarket aluminum radiator is mounted in the rear. Two new 16" American made Flex-A-Lite S Blade electric fans are included - not mounted. Piping to and from the engine is 1.5" copper pipe with rubber hoses front and rear to isolate vibration. New aluminum "high volume" water pump. High volume LOL. Had had to enlarge the water flow holes just to match the size of a stock pump.

Fuel supply: The design is based on two gas tanks made from .125" aluminum. Total capacity is about 14 gallons.Though one tank may prove sufficient. The larger tank sits down in the frame on the passenger side and away from the exhaust and protected b the frame. The smaller tank sits next to the radiator behind the seats to be connected to the lower tank with 1" rubber hose. Two gas gauge senders and adapters are included to be installed when the best locations are determined. The filler cap is made from a Hughes 269 Helicopter main rotor blade dampener.

Engine: It's a '75 350 Chevy four bolt 010 block bored .030" over with all new complete rebuild kit with cam bearings installed, pistons fit to rods. Ten under crank, new bearings, mild cam, hydraulic lifters, oil pump, timing chain set and gasket set. Heads are bare stock cast iron used for making exhaust. The plan was to buy Edelbrock, Made in America, aluminum heads. A compac aftermarket starter is included The exhaust uses stainless hugger headers and carbon steel exhaust pipes and small diameter glass pack mufflers mounted on the left side away from the fuel tanks.

The supercharger is a 4-71 and uniquely designed (design protected) belt blower drive to run the blower off the front of the engine with the blower protruding the grill shell - hence the rear mounted radiator. Project includes two Holley carbs, a spread bore and a square. Both should probably be done through.

Dual 4 cylinder distributors are a very unique design (design protected) and are belt driven. The oil pump is driven by a modified Chevy distributor. A Chevy stock distributor included and should be used to break-in run the engine before tinkering with the dual distributor set up.

Trans & Clutch: It's a Muncie 4 speed and includes a fresh rebuild kit to be installed. The flywheel is 153 tooth aluminum Weber Clutch design with steel face and a new Borg & Beck Pressure plate.

Body: Fiberglass '27 with turtle deck removed to add or build a pickup bed. The body has been cut the long way to widen for the wider frame. Rear fenders are '30-'31 model A Ford. Front glass fenders are some unknown car - maybe a kit car. The Grill Shell is a modified after market steel shell. It will need further mod to fit over the blower. Seats, not shown, are from a Bell 222 Helicopter.

Misc: Many of the bolts included are grade 8 to be used for final assembly. Lower grade butter bolts are holding things together for now. I have CNC machined brackets to add a bolt on roll bar to the design. Also included is a polished liquid filled all copper fire bottle from a Hawker Corporate Jet Plane with two electric squibs the could be made functional... with properly protected manual arming and manual and automatic firing circuits. A couple of sets of 3" five point belts are included.

Payment: A $500.00 Non-refundable within 48 hours of auction end. That means you will not get that money back. That $500.00 will be deducted from the selling price. The project must be picked up in south east, Mesa, Arizona. Final payment is to be by wire transfer, cash or Cashier's Check. Payment is due at time of pick up prior to you loading anything. Pick up must be made on a day during regular banking hours as the transaction will take place with cash or Cashier's Check and buyer ID that will be verified by the bank. I will need the Cashier's Check information a couple business days to verify and hold your funds before you arrive.

Warranty: None. No warranty or title of any kind including functionality, suitability of any purpose or design or components is expressed or implied. Any design changes or other any other changes or additions are the buyer and subsequent buyers. Inspection and compliance with all Federal, State and locals laws are the responsibility of buyer.

Obviously you'll need a trailer and might be able to rent a one way U-haul trailer. Be sure you check with U-haul as they have strict requirement for your tow vehicle. It would be best if you were to bring a pal to help you load as I am not able to help much at all. If you're a Good Guys or NSRA member you may find a local member to help you load. Allow time to disassemble and load as needed. You may need to arrange to stay somewhere over night.

Contact me prior to bidding to discuss details. The project must be picked up as there will no shipping.

This an untitled, street rod that is not a bolt-together kit. I made this myself - I used to teach machining and CAD/CAM. I custom make my stuff to be more sophisticated and technically advanced so no one will think this came from Pep Boys. This is a deal where the majority of the tough stuff in done but it's not for someone with limited experience and ability. There is still work to be done by someone with skills a bit beyond bolting stuff together.

Look at the cars being offered for sale here and locally and at cruises and car shows. If you want a street rod that you can complete and be proud of to the level of a $40,000 or more beauty, you'll need to start with something more unique and more sophisticated than a rusty Model A frame and everyday off the shelf or old used stuff.

You could buy a kit car from Speedway or other chassis builder and assemble a rod sooner maybe even cheaper if you really want that custom chopper motorcycle look where each chopper is different, but they all look the same.

The car is also advertised locally.

Send questions & comments by email through eBay.

Thanks for getting through all this,


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