1991 Camaro Z28 - Fully modded and sorted, must read

For Sale
1991 Z28 Camaro, L98 TPI, T-56 trans.

I bought this car in stock condition with a 700-R4 in 1997. I built it over the course of the next 6 years in just about every chassis aspect possible.

I sold it in 2002 to fund a C4 road race car. The Corvette was an 89. I swapped engines, since the one in the Camaro was very built and had a mini ram and was the one I wanted to race, and the L98 from the Corvette went into the Camaro, keeping all of the other bolt-ons.

I regretted selling it every day, and eventually ended up buying it back in 2010. Fast forward to now with a family, I'm into other activities and I simply don't end up getting it out of the garage anymore and it's time for it to enjoy a new life.
The binder of receipts is 2" thick, and that only had the larger receipts. Here is a very brief summary of the main components of it, and approximate cost not including anything like gaskets or fasteners:
Driveline - $4736
89 L98 aluminum head engine, mellings high volume oil pump, T56 trans from 1995 Z28, hurst competition plus shifter, skulte t56 swap crossmembe, new clutch hydraulics, March underdrive aluminum pulleys
Rear Axle - $700
GM 12 bolt, new zexel torsen posi differentia, 3.73 richmond gears, MAC cast aluminum reinforced diff cover, installation/setup
Exhaust $540
hooker competition mid length headers, flowmaster y-pipe, MAC catback
Brakes $1570
- new master cylinder, vacuum booste, Front brakes - Baer 12" track pack system, drilled, slotted, zinc coated rotors, dual piston calipers, stainless braided hoses, Rear brakes - All new GM rotors/calipers/pads
Wheels - roh sniper 16x8 $800
Suspension $ 867
South side machine welded subframe connectors with installation, Jamex strut tower brace, Hotchkis panhard rod, IRS terminator lower control arms, KYB GR2 shocks and struts, Energy suspension bushings, new tie rods/end links/ball joints.
Interior - $1000
Seats, Console plate - manual conversion, Gagues, Steering wheel, Radio kenwood speakers front/rear/ kenwood cd player
Electrical and other misc - $600
Msd box, New battery, radiator, hoses, lines, hood liner,new ec, custom PROM chip, reservoir tanks, turn signal lenses, ....
That short list of mods is around $10,000 not including any of the small stuff. The small stuff like braided fuel lines and fasteners is not included and really adds up.
The engine runs perfectly, burns no oil, does not puff smoke at startup and never gets hot. Good oil pressure. The transmission makes no noises from any of the synchros, and never pops out of any gear. Smooth as can be.
If you can manage to stay out of the throttle, since 6th gear is a 0.50 ratio overdrive, it only runs about 1800rpm at 70mph on the highway and really gets amazing mileage for what it is.
It looks great from any angle and will not disappoint. Do not expect to find perfect scratch and chip free paint though. It's original paint mostly, and I've thoroughly enjoyed it and never had to worry about parking at the far corner of the lot to avoid scratches. I tried to take pictures of some of the paint chipping on the front ground effect, but overall, the original paint is in great shape. So is the interior and chassis. Almost no rust, no cracks at all in any interior part, including the original dashboard. The passenger side fender and the front corner of the hood are slightly wrinkled. I have parts to replace them, along with a perfect front fascia, rear deck lid, and everything needed to make it perfect, but I realized if I painted it, I would worry about scratching it every time I drove it, so I’d rather enjoy it and certainly have.
I have an overwhelming amount of records and pictures from all of the different modifications that were done. The odometer reads around 156,000 miles, but this is mainly because the first speedometer buffer box was junk, and the other owner used his GPS, so more or less, as soon as the car was over 40mph, it pegged the speedo at 150mph. That adds up quickly. Actual mileage I would estimate is close to 90,000. The Carfax report actually shows an odometer discrepancy before I purchased it, and I do not know why, but all of the chassis and driveline components more or less have been replaced.

As far as the road manners, it never fails to start, runs fine on 87 octane, and flat out runs. It’s more of a corner carver than a straight line machine, and that will be obvious the first time you drive it. I would not recommend it for young drivers, or if you have no racing background at all. It’s easy to get it pretty loose in a turn with a little throttle.

Need to sell. In the past 3 years, I have only driven it around 10 times. With little room inside, no AC, and kids, it just doesn’t get used anymore and needs a good home.