Rat Rod, hot rod, sedan

1930 Chevrolet Other Almost Ratty

Technical specifications of Chevrolet Other 1930

Price: -
Condition: Used
Item location: Roanoke, Virginia, United States
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Other
SubModel: Sedan
Type: Sedan
Trim: Almost Ratty
Year: 1930
Mileage: 5,100
VIN: 10671A
Color: Black
Engine size: 425 Cadillac
Number of cylinders: 8
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: Automatic
Drive type: RWD
Interior color: Black / Red
Drive side: Left-hand drive
Options: CD Player
Vehicle Title: Clear
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Car description

Rat Rod, Hot Rod, Hand built by myself and son, I can tell you anything about this car because I built it with my hands, from the frame to the interior trim panels. I rescued this body, it is a 1930 rear section with a 1932 front cowl and doors, the original front cowl and doors were to far gone to save, so at the time that is what I found. It is titled as a 1930 Chevrolet sedan, not a rebuilt, or an S10, home made, or reconstructed. A real 1930 Title, I have a photo copy of the original 1930 new car title. The frame was built with 2" x 4" 1/4" steel tube. The front is stacked on top of the main frame and the rear is kicked up @ 16". Model A split bones and axle, suicide spring with gas shocks mounted on Corvair steering arms, speedway disc brakes up front and the caddy drums on the back. The steering box is from a Suzuki Samurai, with splines and D/D shaft, connected to a Cadillac tilt and telescopic column. The engine 425, transmission TH400, and rear differential came from the same 1978 Cadillac Sedan Deville, gear ratio is 2-28. it will run 60 at 1200 RPM. It is not an off the line car but it comes on strong very quickly. I did reseal the engine, no ring groove, no scaring, all bearings looked great, new oil pump and timing chain, new fuel pump, I plumbed all the brakes and fuel system. no smoke, I installed a 500 Caddy cam, aluminum intake and Holley carb., transmission was resealed, and a new converter. I cut the driveshaft down myself and had it balanced. no vibration at any speed. All of the wood was replaced with 1" x 1" square tube. The floor was built with the same and covered in metal, all of the sheet metal is held in place with aluminum rivets, the floor metal was then painted and covered with a heat barrier, and black carpet. The rear and side windows are plexi. and the windshield is 1/4" Lexan with MR-10 coating, same stuff as used in Drag cars, The MR-10 is scratch resistant. I built all the front window run channels with aluminum u groove and covered the inside with carpet, the door windows go up and down with a strap and snaps. The seats are rebuilt mustang seats with all the bolsters removed and recovered, all of the interior panels are 1/4" Luann covered with headliner material. I did go overboard on the inside, I call it a Hat Rod, We went past Rat but not all the way to Hot, I do drive it and I wanted it comfortable, it has a c/d player and 6x9's, it has heat and defrost. Air is from the windows down and the front vent opened. All VDO gauges and original dash made to fit. A 9+3 Rebel wire harness. Tear drop tail lights and a third brake light with stop on it. Old napa headlight housings, Aluminum Radiator for 65 mustang inside the grille shell, aluminum overflow mounted under the original raditor cap, electric fan with auto on at 185, the fuel tank is from RPM 17 gal. aluminum fuel cell, I have drove this at Myrtle Beach, with no problems in the heat, We have had a lot of fun with this car but I do not drive it now as much I did, so no need to let it sit and rot away. I don't want to be the old man 20 years from now telling the young guys it"s not for sale, (I"M GOING TO FIX IT) I think we have all heard that before. The build was started in the winter of 2008 and after a lot of weekends, busted knuckles, hurt feelings, burns and walk outs, it hit the road in the summer of 2011. It is a very solid car, a very strong car, We painted the body with a gloss red and satin black Rustoleum, I have had no problems driving this car anywhere I wanted. I have way more hours in this car than I can be paid for, but we do it for the Cool factor, not the money. If you bid and win be prepared to pay for it, This listing is not free, it cost me money if you don't pay.Cash in hand is best, A cashiers check will work but the funds will have to clear my bank before the car leaves. A deposit of $1000.00 through PayPal will need to be made within 24 hours after action ends. You can do all PayPal if you wish but YOU will have to pay the extra 3% fees. I can help load with your shipper, the shipping is on you. I will work with the shipper and make it as easy as possible. If you have any questions just send a message and I will answer as soon as I can. (Working man here) M-F so if you send me a message don't get upset if I respond that night. I can send any picture of any part you have a question about. But hey this is not a how to build a car 101 ok, don't ask for 100 different pictures of 1 part trying to figure out how you can do it. The car has 1 mechanical problem, the turn signals do not cancel when you turn right.1 cosmetic defect, 1 of the web welds popped on the side of the web, no big deal but you need to know.I had to set a starting price, but no reserve after the first bid. Good luck you may get a great deal on a great car.I have more pictures I will try to add, It will only allow 12 right now for some reason.I encourage you to come and look at it, just send me a message we can make it happen.I would not sell this car if it was a P.O.S. it is a very nice car, I had it out on Sunday for a 20 mile drive before I listed it.I do have some older videos of the car back in 2012 on (you tube) before I added the new shocks and cut the body and added rear fender wells for the new wheels. they are public videos under, Ken Booth, at the time I took the videos a person in florida was interested in the car, but after a few months of BS, I just deleted his info and added him to my spam folder. I will add the extra pictures to my channel.

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